Spike Camp

Weatherby Products => Accessories => Topic started by: Michiganhunter on May 19, 2017, 04:57:17 AM

Title: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: Michiganhunter on May 19, 2017, 04:57:17 AM
What cleaning tools should I use? I've been looking at all the products that are available and thought I should get the recommendations here.

What bore guide? Lucas?
What cleaning rod? Coated or stainless?
Brushes? Nylon? Brass? Stainless steel?
Do I need a special tool to protect the muzzle crown?
What should I use to clean the bolt and bolt face?
Do you ever clean the trigger and safety assembly? Do you use oil on the trigger/safety components?
Are there other tools or cleaning procedures I should use or not use?

Should I remove and clean the wood stock or synthetic stock?
If I do remove the stock when I put it back together do I need to torque the screws and how much?
Since joining the Weatherby Nation I have been reading many posts from the various forums. I soon learned there are many knowledgeable members out there and opinions I thought were true, wasn't necessarily so.

Even though I've been hunting and shooting for over 50 years and cleaning my rifles and shotguns, am I doing it correctly?

Title: Re: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: .257 on May 19, 2017, 05:47:04 AM
Everyone has a different idea on this, not sure if any are right or wrong

I use Tipton a Tipton products mainly, bore guide, cleaning rod fiberglass, jags and brush's. I use brass brushes

I always clean from chamber out, when using a brush I do not pull the brush back thru to the chamber.

I use Hoppes bore and copper cleaner

I use Rem Oil on actions and bolts, rifles and shotguns.

The rest is personal preference I think, if you have a blued gun and hunt in the rain and snow maybe you should take your stock off and clean. If you do, yes you should use a torque drive to reset your action screws and every brand has its own torque specs, most are listed on their websites or give them a call.

Hope this helps,,

Mike
Title: Re: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: Gary on May 19, 2017, 09:11:10 AM
93, the Lucas bore guide is the best.  Call Mike (803-356-0282) he will tell you which coated rod to get.  His guides are make, model and caliber specific.  They will save your lands from excessive wear. A very well known benchrest Shooter and gunsmith/custom builder said, if you don't have a bore guide don't bother cleaning the barrel.  Nylon brushes are easier on the barrel, metal brushes are a no-no.  The less traffic inside the barrel when cleaning the better.  If the stock is removed, the action screws must be retorqued with an inch-pound torque wrench like the Wheeler Fatwrench and blue Loctite. There are different torque specs for various stock materials like plastic, wood, fiberglass, wood laminate, carbon fiber and aluminum bedding blocks/pillars.  There are rifle torque specs on the internet.  Timney Triggers suggests not to lube triggers, just keep them clean with a cloth or brush. 
Title: Re: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: dubyam on May 19, 2017, 09:20:06 AM
I use Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rods and Ultra jags (nickel plated). I don't use bore brushes much, but on the occasion I do, it's usually a Montana Extreme or Pro-Shot nylon brush (because that's what my local gun shop stocks). Again, I use them so rarely I haven't bought brushes in a decade or so.

I've been using a Tipton bore guide, but I have dreams of getting Lucas guides or Sinclair guides for all my different actions. Too much money to do that right now, though.

I use BoreTech Eliminator solvent, and cotton patches (usually Hoppe's brand, because that's what is in stock at the LGS) of the correct size for the caliber.

I do remove rifles from the stock for cleaning, and I do retorque with a torque wrench.

I'm very careful about oils on trigger parts. I use a synthetic oil which will remain viscous down to we'll below 0degF, which is well below my hunting temps, to lubricate the sear engagement. The last thing you want is for your trigger to become gunked up with solidified oils. I use a toothpick to apply just enough to create a film on the engaging surfaces.

I don't use a tool to protect the crown, but I use common sense. Don't pull brushes back through, as Mike mentioned, and be careful pulling jags back through.

I oil the outside and keep it wiped down, and I use a tiny bit of grease on the lugs to ensure smooth operation. Again, a thin, nearly invisible film of grease, not globs and turds of grease all over.

The things most people do wrong, if they're doing anything wrong, is damage the crown and leave copper in the bore.
Title: Re: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: Blackbear3 on May 19, 2017, 10:16:44 AM
They've pretty much covered everything, just make sure you stay away from brass brushes and jags to eliminate false positives when using a copper cleaning solvent.
Title: Re: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: Michiganhunter on May 19, 2017, 12:44:14 PM
Thanks for all the info. I have been doing a few things wrong. Brass brushes. I never understood why the patches came out showing there was still copper in my rifle, until now. It also seems I've been using brass and bronze brushes too much. I have never used nylon brushes.
Title: Re: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: danno50 on October 13, 2017, 04:55:04 AM
Thought I'd revisit this thread and add a new feature that Tipton has come up with recently. A multiple weapons vise and a great idea for cleaning rods. Read, then watch the video.
https://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/clean-tipton-ultra-gun-vise/?utm_source=email&utm_medium=20171013_FridayDigest_143&utm_campaign=/blog/clean-tipton-ultra-gun-vise/
Title: Re: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: eford on December 21, 2017, 11:00:11 PM
I put a tightly wrapped piece of paper towel around a nylon brush, dip it in Hoppes #9, and run it down the bore after each time at the range (but not during hunting season). I follow up with another one through the barrel and let it sit for 15-20 minutes with the muzzle slightly lower than the breech. You might be surprised how much copper is removed from the bore with this simple method. The next wrapped brush through the bore comes out with blue and green all over it, meaning there was a reaction of the cleaner and the copper in the bore. Punch the bore dry and you're done.

I'm lucky to live in a place that is not humid. If a bore is dirty it is not likely to collect much moisture, especially if it is in a place that stays mostly the same temperature and humidity all the time.

A SS or a coated one piece rod is fine. I happen to have a coated one. I don't use jags. Instead I use nylon brushes. They won't react with a bore cleaner like a copper brush can and they seems to keep their diameter / strength better than the copper kinds.
Title: Re: Rifle Cleaning
Post by: texweatherby on April 18, 2018, 10:55:03 AM
Boretech Eliminator.