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Messages - zonie

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Another thing I'm anal about with rifle cases at least is deburring  the inside of primer pockets .  Flash hole uniformer,  mine is a Lyman.  It's not for drilling flash holes to correct size  I have drill bits for that if needed.

I forgot the main question what cleaning media.  I prefer ground walnut shells and unless the compounds are superfine of super big in size they get stuck in primer pockets.  Liquids of course and the tiny stainless pins do not, and some corn cob.   The stainless pins do a really good job I'm just not a fan of running liquid cleaners unless really stained it's more work for me personally.  I kind of have a cleaning regiment if the cases are really really stained I might give them a soaking in 50/50 vinegar/water for a few minutes and let dry and then tumble in a mixture of RCBS white cleaning/polish compound and walnut shells to knock off the rough stuff ( but this does cause very fine scratches on the cases. In another tumbler I use walnut shell I buy for cheap at pet supply store an add  a golf ball size liquid turtle wax and mix until dry and then tumble a second time for the really dirty cases.  I leave the primers in and after sizing I'll clean the primer pockets with a primer pocket cleaning brush.  I like the primer pockets clean and flush.  Depending on how dirty the cases are I almost always only clean the case once with the turtle wax /walnut  media and I may let it run all night in the garage it doesn't hurt anything and then size.   If a person really had huge amounts to clean go down to the local jet engine maintenance supply workshop and see where they buy their 100 lb bags of ground walnut shells they run down the engines to clean turbine blades.   Then you might want to make  a one off tumbler or buy a  cement mixer

The little I know about more modern center fire primers from  years little older than WWII most primers were mercury fulminate or similar composition (corrosive primers).  Post WWII & Korea most primers military & civilian small arms primers are lead styphanate or similar other compounds ( non-corrosive primers ).   Currently they are playing with so called green primers diazodinitpohenol ( ddnp ) and similar.   I use  word similar because there are other priming compounds that were / are used.  There are some year's in which the civilian priming compounds pre-dates WWII,  for the most part we can use the above for rough dates.  If you think about it I wouldn't think  none of them are good for anyones health especially firing weapons in enclosed spaced with no ventilation systems.  Lead priming mixtures might be even more so mainly from what I've been told is the microscopic residue from the lead primer going off and then inhaled.  Firing lead bullets per say indoor shooting ranges may shave off an little lead or melting of the lead that tends to be different than the chemical cloud from priming/powder/bullet/barrel oil mixtures when a gun is fired.  Anyway that's what I've read and been told. A lot of indoor ranges for quite some time regulated what types of ammo and sometimes primers and bullets that may be used, even though they have built in ventilations systems to help eliminate the issue.  Wash hands then go  eat or  before rubbing your hands all over everything  after re-loading anyway. 

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Colt Cobra
« on: October 12, 2017, 08:39:01 AM »
Like an old master chief navy seal asked me one day what was the best gun ?   I wasn't a seal but since he knew I was into guns.  Any way I went in depth with bunch of garbage on which gun was the best and why .   I told him how to build a watch when I should have been telling him what time it was because that was the meat of the question.  I mean this in a good way he's one  crazy old master chief,   this guy was unhinged nobody messed with him,  he stared at me and said boy the best gun is the one you have in your hand, half smiling like he set me up.  Thank god we have people like this in the military I think he was the Navy version of Rambo. 

I think I would look at the T/C as badsection recommended and I'll add the Ruger all American both in 6.5 creedmoor.

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Trail cam pics
« on: October 09, 2017, 08:14:48 PM »
We just got back from Smithville Tx,   sister-in-law has a little summer place outside town.  Get up in the morning take a shower and watch deer in the front yard deer everywhere.  Went and did a little fishing at port Lavaca and a little pier @ Indianola bayside,  a lot of little one's we threw back.  Now my wife a Texas girl wants to move back to  be close to family when she retires.  So it looks like we may move in a few years and become snow birds living maybe  in TX in the winter and AZ mountains in the summer.   

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Colt Cobra
« on: October 09, 2017, 02:37:39 PM »
In general terms my opinions and  my observations.   If you are going to carry a weapon for self defense whether it's for the two or four legged predators. I would highly suggest knowing how a person is going to carry the weapon e.g. concealed,  holster on the hip or shoulder,  in a purse, in a pocket,  whatever the case it HAS to be comfortable to carry, if it ain't comfortable you aren't going to carry for long.   That alone will dictate general type and size of weapon, it might be a small gun it might be a big gun,  you won't know that until you try a lot of different combo's of guns and carry styles.  I just bought a high dollar ankle holster for a j-frame Smith after using it for a few days I come to the conclusion it's worthless for me and went back to an old neoprene ankle holster that doesn't flop around.    If a person doesn't carry on their person,  or purse  or some other way,  it really doesn't have the same affect as someone carrying a handgun next to his car seat or other area.  The rig has to be comfortable when carrying.   With this in mind a person can base their needs on what type of gun to buy.   At times I may carry several different types of weapons semi's, revolvers, hunting types, not at the same time except maybe an ankle holster and I got a pile of holster/rigs I just don't use because they are uncomfortable. If a person is just going out to plink and not carry is a different situation.  On the other hand if a person knows they may carry for self defense they better be prepared to train on whatever weapon they choose and maintain their proficiency until you stop carrying.   This brings me to a point if a person is not willing to shoot to stay familiar with their weapon they ought to buy the simplest weapon to operate and learn and get good with that gun.  You can always further your proficiency on other guns later down the road and possible upgrades to another types and that's ok, and we are only talking about the mechanics of carrying a weapon, not the legal issues that's a whole different ballgame.   If I'm on  horse and carry a scabbard which I don't do that much anymore the rifle is set-up in front of my leg vertical butt stock up so I can dis-mount at the same time grabbing the rifle, others have the rifle set-up to come out to the rear, neither is wrong just different,  same with riding the quads  with a rifle set-up I like mine right where I can grab it usually right in front of me, other guy's like them set-up fore and aft in back,  I suppose it's a little safer that way but slower to get to.  If a person is willing to learn there really isn't any wrong gun per say as long as it's a reliable and goes bang every time.  It's what we need to do with them that will tell us  what  carry style or holster rig we need.

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Colt Cobra
« on: October 08, 2017, 08:56:51 AM »
There are some real advantages for using revolvers with full moon clips.  A good portion of the highest level SPEED revolver shooters either buy or have their guns modified to use full moon clips.   www.cylinder-slide.com    or  www.tkcustom.com     Why because they index faster when loading and all the spent shells come out at the same time when ejected and they dump in a pile with the moon clip attached , no need to go hunt for cases on the ground.   They  are just plain faster to unload and reload.    The downside  you should use good moon clips  when you drop them on the ground sometimes the cheaper ones can bend a little causing them to bind  (if  bent) when loaded the next time and rotating the cylinder.  Moon clips should be unloaded and re-loaded with inexpensive special tools to get the job done easier (no big deal).  Same could be said when speed shoot matches and you drop a half loaded semi-auto magazine on a hard surface and it comes apart on you.  My 1911 semi auto magazines on our race guns are mostly welded bases to eliminate this problem,   use better quality  tk moon clips or others and you drop the thing on a hard surface it does the same thing,  they can bend sometimes.   You need to use fully flat moon clips in order for the cylinder not to drag when trigger is pulled.  Most everyday shooters won't have too many problem they don't ding them on the ground like speed shooters do,  it's not a high priority  anyway they are in it to win so a few bent moon clips are part of the game just as damaged semi-auto magazines.   My police buddy murdered by a drug dealer had a smith & Wesson 940 - 9mm, 5 shot revolver his son now has it,   bitchen gun but double action,   another gun is the new Ruger LCR in 9 mm,  and Taurus M905 with a hammer in 9mm.   One thing I would look at is whether you want to shoot double action only or have the option to shoot both double action and single action in the same gun,  these all use moon clips.   There are other  larger revolver models that use full moon clips.  Most old time guy's I know  that shoot fast revolver matches use 38 supers, 9x23.   even a few Smith model 610's in 10mm auto and N frame Smith's 45 acp .  You can always convert several different revolvers to use full moon clips.   One thing about 5 shot 9mm full moon clips is they are small and don't take up a lot of space in the wifes purse or your pocket,  the other large caliber and 7 or 8 shot moon clips are a little bulky but not terribly oversized.  The other thing about a good revolver is they almost never fail ,  you might get one the doesn't go bang because most likely lousy ammo,  by design you can rotate that cylinder around and hit that unfired round again and see if it goes off or not.  The other thing about revolvers  they are usually better for people that don't shoot a lot,  yes there could be something said about semi-autos until they jam and an unfamiliar person with that gun  is trying to un jam one in a stress situation is not a good day.  To be perfectly honest both styles of guns can screw up,  but the revolver is less likely.  My dad was a state police in the 1930's before he went federal,  them old farm and ranch boy's could shoot,  when the wonder nine's came out in the 80's & 90's it was like 15 rounds bang, bang, bang and shoot some more.  I would be way more afraid of an old timer with a good six shooter than someone that doesn't shoot a lot with a high capacity semi-auto especially at longer ranges.  Handguns are just harder to master and it takes time and testing to get it down and even then you got to still practice, maybe just not as much. 

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Colt Cobra
« on: October 06, 2017, 09:30:21 AM »
This new colt doesn't look like a good fit and finish.  I prefer older guns anyway.  If you can find an old colt used for a decent price it might be worth it.  Taurus makes a pretty decent little revolver and, my favorites are Smith & Wesson air weights at least for concealed carry revolvers go ( pocket guns).    These are all belly guns, short range, personal protection.  in this case a 357 mag probably isn't needed, case in point these light weight little snubbies can get your attention the first time you pull the trigger with their smaller grips and + p ammo.   I personally like the shrouded hammer or that little somewhat concealed hammer  models a little better for less of a chance of snagging on something.  Lets call it what it is none of them have great double action triggers so unless you are willing to get a very good gunsmith to smooth out the  D/A trigger  I'd  keep shots very close.  Single action mode most have decent triggers but none would compare to a really good trigger job.  A couple pf our race guns the double action is so light that we have to use federal  or win primers to ensure the gun fires due to very light hammer drop in double action mode which usually has a shorter hammer arch vs single action mode.   Personal protection guns I wouldn't lighten the trigger too much but rather make them smooth which totally enhances stacking the trigger double action mode to be more accurate and ensure you really want to drop the hammer of not.  Again this is with a lot of practice to be proficient with a D/A  revolver.   Lately I have been carrying a Colt Trooper 4" barrel in a shoulder holster ,  full power 357's,  it's heavy,  but very very accurate and totally manageable in fast double action mode as long as you know how to shoot  a double action revolver. 

Depends on where you are hunting,  what you are hunting, and how you are hunting.  there is really no right or wrong answer it's more of a point view from that particular person.   In my opinion rifle barrels accuracy comes from quality of the barrel , something could be said shortening a barrel let's say a number 2 barrel from 24 to 20 inches should provide a very very slight increase in accuracy, just how much accuracy increase is unknown.  You will lose some velocity cutting off 4 inches again the decrease in velocity is unknown until you shoot it and re-work up loads possibly switching powders  to increase velocities.  I really don't put a whole lot of stock on barrel lengths per say as long as the gun is accurate which is way more important to me than pure velocity.   I generally load to gain the highest velocity with acceptable accuracy.  In other words if I gain 100 fps or so and lose 1/2" to 1 " accuracy  @ 100yds  I will go with the slower load.   There is something to be said  about a rifles balance and how it carries and swings.  Since I'm short anyway too long of a barrel  hinders me especially when hiking.  I like shorter barrel shotguns, elephant rifles, and bolt guns , hell I use a 20 ga with a 22" barrel as a turkey gun and ain't had one get away yet.  I place way more emphasis on how confident you are with the gun rather that something as someone's opinion  as which is better 24 or 26 "

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Ed's Red and Ballistol
« on: September 23, 2017, 07:47:11 AM »
Been using ed's red for a few years ,  good stuff and when made in volume qt size or larger  way less expensive than over the counter stuff.   Anhydrous lanolin can be bought or ordered from the local pharmacy.   Liquid lanolin can be used as part of fr. frog's spray case sizing lubricant.   Type in fr.frogs and see all the cool information he has.    www.frfrogspad.com  scroll down toward the bottom on the right hand side click on homemade cleaners and lubricants.  there is a wealth of information    if you decide to read all of it.

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Going elk hunting next week
« on: September 12, 2017, 09:59:24 AM »
Congratulations :  spike bull's are better eating anyway.   That smoke is no fun to hunt in,  seems like every year the forest service like to control burn small local areas right at hunting time. 

Very sorry to hear about all your losses.   

The short reply is no.   crusher guns (cup/lup)  vs transducers (psi) are open to the quality of the test and conditions (good working order) of all test equipment and the ballistic tech's interpretation of the findings.  There is a strain guage out there for the not so novice reloaders if they wanted to read pressures on an (individual firearm ).  How accurate it is as compared to the other two methods which are based on the ammo vs  the strain guage based on ammo & firearm.  This is just general info people can get into trouble when trying to compare powder burn rates thinking OH !  the other powders are only one up or down on the burn rate chart  from the original powder so it should be fine ?   WRONG !!! answer.  These powders are tested and re-tested using one of the approved methods.  Each caliber is different ,  and has to be treated as such in any pressure test, different size, different case capacity, different, bore, different bullet weight, different gun, etc.  My own personal view velocity readings are secondary in importance  vs accuracy which is most important,  SO LONG as the velocities are not hundreds of fps apart, in that case I would start looking at different things to bring velocities back up to somewhat accepted velocities.  All guns are different  so I don't expect to always get highest velocities with best accuracies.   

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Barrel cleaning and accuracy
« on: September 02, 2017, 04:15:45 PM »
It seems like most people have a cleaning regime that they hopefully found for each rifles history.  I do agree once severely fouled whether it's copper or lead , some other alloy or even clear lacquer  or plastic coating used on some eastern block military cartridges and plastic shotgun wads needs to be removed.   How much removal/cleaning and the method should be based on the gun itself.  I really do think it depends on the cartridge in question, the  barrel , how it's made,  type of rifling etc.  I have rifles that shoot best when absolutely clean and much more than a few that need to be shot &  fouled before they settle down with best accuracy.  I have one newer Weatherby that needs about 20/30 rounds before it settles down.  On this website we have been going over what's the best way to clean a firearm.  I like a certain way and other's have their own way and that's a good thing because, we seem to like different methods and different cleaning solvents, pastes, rods, rod tips and everything else.  I don't clean some of  my  hunting rifles thoroughly  e.g.  for 2 or 3 years it seems ,  I may only shoot them one of two times a year.   I may brush the cob webs out and run some lite oil down the barrel , but not a complete removal of all copper, carbon etc.  I live in a dry climate so rust is not usually a problem,  the reason is unless accuracy falls off to where the gun absolutely needs a cleaning then why bother plus if you don't know how to clean a firearm correctly especially softer barrels you can do more damage than good,  running that cleaning rod back and forth, back and forth wearing the barrel out.  Let the firearm tell you what it needs, and this could mean keeping track of how many rounds down the barrel before it starts acting up, of course people that live in high humidity areas you will need to get that bad stuff out of the barrel before you put it up/store it,  and the barrel rusts, and that goes for anyone that get's moisture in their barrel such as rain, etc.  common sense and proven practices and recommendations  goes a long way.   I'm not totally sold on any particular cleaning product, but rather I  have favorites and may use a combination of products that work in a sequence  with each other to COMPLETELY remove copper, lead and other fouling.

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