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Messages - zoniezonie

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Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Knives 2
« on: Yesterday at 01:28:20 PM »
No it's a S30V ,,  good steel,  I have other knives made from D2  and they are good steels also. 

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Knives 2
« on: March 26, 2023, 12:14:34 PM »
Right now my every day carry knife is a Lone Wolf Harsey  T1 folder.  Anymore hunting I don't carry the larger fixed blades  I'll leave them in the vehicle if needed.   Even skinning or boning out an elk most of us use shorter  2" to 3 " blade  folders or a little fixed 2" shaping knife,   I even have  folding  Boker Ceramic that I went thru 5 elk one season before I had it sent back for re-sharpening, I bought a new blade for it a couple months ago, blade nicks real easy too brittle for  anything but cutting.  I do have a Kershaw about little over 3 " folding blade that holds an edge and  easy to sharpen,  I picked up a Muela folder olive wood handles made near Toledo Spain  when I was over there great steels.    I do carry a little pocket steel with me to run the blade a few licks on. 

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Buck Knives
« on: March 26, 2023, 11:41:51 AM »
When I was in the Navy,   BM1 until I got out,  we used the San Diego or El Cajon made buck 110's,  or the Large 2 Blade folding Case or Kabars, and some others.  These large Navy knives were used daily for the most part cutting / splicing large Navy nylon lines,  opening paint cans , and everything else  that can destroy a knife, great knives, for what they are,  got to know how to sharpen  them.

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Change for the Better?
« on: March 26, 2023, 11:03:07 AM »
Just my opinions,  I don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about any of these so called  let's issue tags in the name of filling coffers of monies that are suppose to go help the game animals.  maybe yes and maybe no I really don't know where all the monies go, could be animal foundations.  I do see G & F  running around in new vehicles,  new buildings, etc.   We have Speciality tags auction or speciality draws,  not a lot but a few.   What burns my ass is we have to live within our means and so should these Gov"n agencies what ever they may be.  They are pricing non-residents out of the game unless they have money, and it's getting worst.  Price increases are rising thru the years that it's affecting regular people.   AZ has another stupid ass idea and has been going on for quite a few years now  since AZ is pretty much (not all) a random big game draw.  it use to be you had to pay up front to put in for tags and if you didn't get  drawn you were refunded your tag fees., now all you have to pay is an application fee (not to be confused with actual fees),  and that money is kept even if you don't get drawn ,  what that does is allows anyone that doesn't have enough money in the bank or credit card to apply and charged if you get drawn.    Big game tags some are pretty expensive even for residents  let alone non-residents all this does is dilute/reduce your big game draw chances with the assumption for instance let's say I'll or anyone else  put's in for everything and hopes to  I get drawn and then get charged from my credit card when and if I get drawn (You have to use a computer to apply and you have to have a credit card to deduct monies when drawn ) and that's B/S.  my under standing non-residents need to buy a non-resident hunting license which is no refunded if you don't get drawn although the tag fees are refunded less the application fees.  maybe some one can correct me if something has changed.    It's money,  it's reducing my chances of getting drawn,  and that keeps people out, IMO.

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Bird dogs
« on: March 14, 2023, 08:20:34 PM »
Looks like Cholla,  do you use boots on your dogs ?   We are getting a few Mearn's  up higher in elevation, not a lot but a every now and then we see them.  Scallies , Mearns , are more down on the border,  My friend uses Poodle Pointers and they work very well although one got bit by rattle snake a few years back, she survived. 

They are just keeping up with other states,   it's been a rich man's sport for quite a few years now, and especially true for non-residents high tag and license prices., let alone the actual cost of the hunt.  The problem is there are people out there with a lot of money (and that's not a bad thing),  but it sure doesn't help the average person.  Take a look at several Apache reservations  trophy elk hunt's and choke on those prices.  It's cheaper to hunt plains game in Africa than pay for a decent  guided bull elk hunt on public land or pay the high dollar for free roaming ranch tags for bull elk.  Hell when we go Tuna fishing in California or long range down in Mexico I bet it costs at least 500 bucks a day per person  and usually more  by the time it's said and done, and that's on the cheap,  that's not including, fuel , travel & lodging,  fish processing, tips, and  all the rod's , reel's and tackle we have bought thru the years,  nothing is cheap anymore.

I've have an interest in a 8mm rem mag, never got around to buying one. 

You never know

Every Christmas my wife asks me what I want and my answer has been for years now I really don't need anything, so for us old hacks this probably rings pretty true,  now if a guy is new to the game I could see him going with a new long range caliber that kind of does everything the guy's on TV are doing now with their guns. The problem is they aren't doing anything a guy with a decent more traditional older caliber  can't do if a person sets their mind to it, especially today with better bullets and powders when they are available.  This is to the Manufacturers what's coming out currently are in little increments ,  a little faster,  a little lighter,  shoots a little longer ranges,  I would like to see something  so out of the ordinary, futuristic , totally out classing anything , next generation of firearms/ammo that makes all current firearms and ammo obsolete.   

Truck driver 2 is correct .   this is what I do If I want factory looking brass, I do it in two stages one small vibratory tumbler with ground walnut shells I buy from the local pet store (used for bird bedding cheaper than gun brands of ground walnut shells)  I will add a golf ball sized handfull of Bar Keepers Friend cleaner very fine scouring powder get it at walmart ,  RCBS also sells scouring powder in small packets does the same thing for a higher price. The down side this system leaves very fine scratches in the brass , but it also takes most tarnish off. I leave it run all night in the garage,  the next step is to take commercial tumbling media from Hornady (ground corn cob)  for a final polishing, all night again and it does polish out the very fine scratches from the first step.  If it some picked up range brass and in really tarnished/ patina I will soak the brass in 50/50 white vinegar/distilled water solution over night let it dry and goto my first step and see if it comes out,  sometimes yes and sometimes no,  that tarnished you probably not going to use anyway.  Another thing you can do is just use ground walnut shell polish with nothing in it and add a golfball size liquid Turtle wax and run it into ground walnut shell until it is dried into the walnut shells.  I kind of makes the brass a little slicker/smoother good for semi-autos.  if you put any liquids like turtle wax in tumbler and immediately put in the brass you end up with globs of turtle wax that get's into the casings and a mess to clean out. Got to run the liquid till it's dry before putting in any brass.  One thing you never ever do is tumble or Vibratory any live ammo because it breaks down the powder inside and causes the powder to act differently i.e. possibly make it act like a hotter powder, just food for thought.  Nothing ammonia based for cleaning ammo brass it reacts with the brass.  If you have a spare 1/4 to 1/2 horse power electric  motor laying around you can make a giant vibratory tumbler just find an old clothes washer or drier take the tub out, plug the holes , lay it flat, make a wooden or metal frame for the tub to sit on flat  add a few heavy springs with bolts to secure the tub to the frame ,   then get a 1/4 x 2" by 6 " long piece of steel  or whatever is on hand and drill a hole in one end to bolt it extra securely  to the motor shaft and bolt the motor underneath the frame to make it shake out of balance causing the tumbler to vibrate.  basically just like a normal vibratory tumbler just giant sized.   I suppose you could just use an old 55 gal drum cut it in half and do the same thing.  cleans a lot of brass real fast.  This stuff is for people who have access to large amounts of brass  maybe shooting ranges and alike. 

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Vortex
« on: February 20, 2023, 07:26:55 PM »
customer service is king ,  and Vortex is known for it.   I may not always buy the very very best optics but I buy a lot of Vortex for one reason I don't have to be questioned to get it fixed or replaced, there is no argument just send it back and we will take care of it, and that's the way it should be.

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: Spotting scopes
« on: February 12, 2023, 09:33:40 PM »
I guess it's what you plan on using  spotting scopes for.  I don't use them for target shooting for the most part.  We use them for cross canyon elk hunting.  This is where I think skimping or trying to save a few bucks is a mistake.  Not everyone looks thru glass the same,  Old Roger Terminator liked some things Nikon where I liked Vortex on some things.  My son has an older Kowa 82mm wide angle spotting and is exceptional in clarity you don't need super high powered eyepieces to scan mtn sides, in fact you miss a lot of things by choking down field of view VS lower powered wide angle  glass that you can cover more hillside and see a much larger area at the same time,  and you see the wrinkles on old mr elk's neck at 800 yds.  Optical clarity over shear power every time.   My son's  hunting buddies spare no expense and a couple use the dual eye piece Swarovski BTX series with 30x and 35 X eye pieces  these scopes we have used in the past to count kickers on antlers at pretty long ranges and not nearly as hard on your eyes since you are using both eyes instead of one eye.   All of us use some type of German 15x56 binos for rapid scanning and big heavy spotters come out to count points and judge antlers.  I prefer to use small spotters like my Vortex razor HD 11x33 or a Leupold Gold Ring 15 x 30.   not because they are better optically but rather they are a lot lighter to carry around and I not near as serious as my son and his buddies,  they also shed hunt with these big spotters.  If I were to buy a new big spotter for my self it would be a Kowa because I like the glass. You got to look thru a bunch of glass in real world situations to make an informed decision just for yourself.  Some of these scopes are 5, 6, 7 thousand dollars by the time you get the right scope ,  a GOOD tri-pod and other stuff.  Hell I still carry an old 10 x Zeiss pocket bino's  as good today as they were 30 + years ago,  I got an old pair of Hensoldt military bino's I keep in the side by side (still useful and good glass).  I paid 40 bucks for them at a swap meet the guy didn't know what he had.   

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: IMR 7828 vs IMR 7828 ssc
« on: February 05, 2023, 10:09:03 PM »
If you are working up loads at or near maximum,  IMO it's best to load and test in the summer time when it's hot out, that way when hunting in winter temps you shouldn't be over charged VS the other way around i.e load and test in the dead of winter or very cold conditions and then run into over pressure loads come summer or hot weather,  probably a little more important for me living in Arizona in hot weather.  Always use published/tested load data from manufacturers and correctly work up loads.  When I started we didn't have short cut powders so my test loads were based on regular powders normally it was H-4831 and IMR-7828 of the powders that later introduced the short cut versions.  I do think there is a difference between the short cut's and regular powders when you are at max loads. I have stuck bolts  with both types.  Keep things simple and after you find a good load stick with it.  reloading 101 if you change ANY components even seating depths back your powder charges off appropriately just to be safe.  Use brass  and the ammo you re-loaded  specific to each gun you have in the same caliber, more so with high pressure cartridges including pistol calibers.  To be honest I rarely buy short cut powders if I can help it, but in todays climate beggers can't be choosers and buy what you can find that's suitable.  Accuracy to me is far more important than shear velocities.  I try to pick powders based on highest published velocities with lowest pressures and start from there and if that doesn't pan out try a different powder or bullets.  I'm not sold on any one type of powder,   stick vs ball vs flake ,  single or double based.  one of my favorite powders is a ball powder TAC in AR's with Wolf primers dead nuts accurate .  Good luck finding Wolf primers today. 

Very sorry to hear ,   they are part of the family.  the good thing is you will always remember them,  the ashes of our dogs will be scattered with mine when I kick the bucket. 

Around the Campfire (General Discussion) / Re: 1911 dove tail scope mount
« on: February 05, 2023, 09:45:52 PM »
pretty nice !

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