« Last post by JCo on Today at 04:50:02 AM »
Stacey is correct there are many ways to skin a cat. No No No on the inserting action screws into wet epoxy if I read this right, if you know what you are doing it can be done with certain steps, the last thing you want to do is weld the action screws in the receiver and you have to grind off a complete stock to start over. I'd plug the action screw holes with wax and clay and band the action in place. Band the action is using medical rubber tubing and securing the action in place very very tightly while the epoxy is drying you don't need the action screws to hold the rifle in place doing it this way. It's the thick bands when they draw blood, get half a dozen of these thick bands and they will last your lifetime. Look on you tube and it will show you the different ways of securing a rifle stock when bedding with epoxy. I ask the nurses when getting blood drawn to give me a few and they usually do. First it's number 1 barrel which can be a little finiky. Don't do anything until you think this thing out. What were your group sizes before with the original stock ? If I read this right you have the idea to insert action screws when epoxy bedding is still wet ? Anything you do above and beyond can void warranty just depends upon how picky the manufacturer of the item wants to be. Most recommended tip pressures are about 5 to 10 pounds give or take there is no set rule. Most Weatherby plastics have built in tip pressure normally 2 lengthwise pressure pads this does two things it centers the barrel in the channel and causes a certain amount of tip pressure. Tip pressure in and of itself IF DONE RIGHT can cause the rifle to shoot well right off the get go with probably more and different kinds of ammo, this is one reason companies do this. It doesn't make it totally consistent as it can be when free floated and best ammo used. Lengthwise left and right pressure pads in the fore end to center a barrel are a band aid for ill fitting stocks in my opinion, basically it makes the barrels look centered (which it usually does) , but any imperfections in other areas of the stock can rear it's ugly head such as more pressure left or right or uneven pressures on high points of the pads themselves can case problems. It would be almost impossible to have perfect pressure contact on every gun on the assembly line. Different torque values can and does make for differences in accuracy, just how much is dependent upon the rifle and ammo. If it were me and I'm not recommending or not recommending this is on you if you want to do it. First I don't trust most gunsmiths to do a job glass bedding any better than I can do my self it's not rocket science. I would find a used plastic original stock and play with it on how t glass bed a rifle, if you screw it up you aren't out but a few bucks as long as you don't weld the rifle into the stock with epoxy because you didn't read and follow the instructions. I would totally take out the pressure pads in the fore end of the practice stock you just bought to play with. As long as the action is not rocking in the action (front to back ), it's usually not necessary to bed the (action) from stem to stern which includes the tang and the completely surrounding the action. Pillar bedding the action screws are fine IF YOU WANT to , but not usually necessary unless the stock is pretty spongy and you are worried about compressing the stock with the action screws. What I find the easiest is epoxy bedd the recoil lug and fore ward into the chamber area about 3 to 4 inches and stop. Leaving the rest of the barrel channel free floated and when I mean free floated I mean free floated . Usually these Tupper stock can bend and warp when heated either by ambient outside temps such as the desert where I sometimes hunt and rapid fire shooting heating the barrel. Tupperware stocks I will usually give about 1 /4 " clearance underneath the barrel all the way back to the where you stopped the epoxy 3 to 4 inches into the barrel channel. This does two things bedding the chamber 3 to 4 inches really stiffens up the stock substantially and giving yourself 1/4 " clearance under the barrel allow a certain amount of movement up and down so the stock doesn't touch when heated, to cause the bullet to start walking. Left and right barrel channel clearance where it's free floated is up to you myself 1/8 inch is about right . This is a cheap easy fix for most rifles, not necessarily the best you can always completely bed the action and pillar bed from tang to just ahead of the receiver 3 to 4 inches, install steel rods in the barrel channel and epoxy and most of these Tupperware stocks have voids in the barrel channel that you can fill with epoxy which really stiffens the whole package up without too much added weight. Another trick is take 15 thousandths or more thickness underground gas pipe tape and run a strip of tape down the whole barrel to where you want the free floating to begin approx 3 to 4 inches ahead of the receiver where you will make full contact bedding of the action, this really does a nice job and stiffens the whole thing up about as stiff as you can make it. Drill out your pillars or stock action screw holes just a little bit over size, you don't want to bind or cause the stock to crack. Wrap the piece of black electrical tape on the back side and bottom of the recoil lug to give yourself a little clearance to release action from the stock. Find yourself a friend with a milling machine and have him cut out the epoxy from the mag/ floor plate , and trigger area, tang area, or other areas. OR buy yourself a good Dremel tool with various sanding and cut off wheels and do it yourself.
Go test different loads or handload for accuracy, you are looking for absolute consistency whether its a scope misbehaving or the stock. I probably missed a few things and if you have any questions feel free to ask. By the way I've had to do this with both Tupperware and the better B&C stocks. At least if you do a practice stock and screw it up you didn't screw up your original stock.
Thanks for the input. Looks like I am getting in too big a hurry. My intent was to take care of 2 issues at the same time. I need to slow down, do a proper bedding job, then take care of the pressure points.