Not sure why you need a fully supported barrel on a 10 mm ? 10mm cases are generally beefie to begin with although I have had a few bulged cases on my raced up delta elite. My bad for using hopped up faster powders.  If you want to hot rod a 10mm get a ramped barrel with max support. There is a misconception concerning fully supported, there is more supported or less supported barrels pertaining to automatics i.e. a certain amount of radiused or relief area for the ramp and extractor, your more supported barrels will encase the web section of the case more.  Different gun and barrel makers have different amounts of support. Easy way to tell is pull the barrel and drop a case in and measure, then measure where the web section of the case starts, remember various brands of cases the web section is not always the same. Other options in 10 mm are Kimber, Colt, Smith & Wession 10 series, Tanfoglio, Glock as stated and Smith & Wesson model 610 revolver, there are a few other lesser known.  You want bad ass get one chambered in 10mm then get an additional barrel for 9x25 Dillon.  Porting lessens velocities assuming the same barrel lengths of non ported barrels,  but keeps the muzzle rise down during rapid fire follow up shots.  I don't know anyone who can rapid fire a full power 10mm without praying and spraying at any longer distances other than belly close, and keep all the shots in a decent group vs the speed and accuracy of a smaller 9mm, 38 super, 9x23 , or 38 super comp.  The 10mm can't compete with a 40 cal for cycle times even if the 10mm is re-springed down to 40 cal levels i.e. due to increased case length of the 10mm and overall mass.  The 10 mm is great for a backup in hunting country in an emergency, smaller deer and game animals at close range. In it's full power form It's not a beginners gun unless you are plinking/serious practice i.e. willing to learn until you build up speed and accuracy.  I would highly advise getting fully adjustable sights.Â
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