To reload or not to reload, that's the question?

[Michiganhunter]

I have time to reload at this point in my life.
What do I "NEED" to buy.
I have the money I was saving for relatives, (I don't even like like them, so why?.) However, in the past, when I  had time, I would rather going fishing then spend time behind the loading bench. Most of us who hunt, also fish.
We hunt to be outdoors to enjoy what God has placed on our bountiful wildlife table to both sample and consume.
If I had a choice to hunt or fish in the fall, I would do both. I still fish year round, trap in the fall for many species and trap in February and March for beaver and otter. In the winter we would ice fish and set out tip-up's on a lake and then hunt for snowshoe rabbits and partridge all around the lake keeping an eye on the tip-ups.
These are some of the reasons I didn't get into re-loading. I prioritized my free time to go fishing, tying flies(only enough for a trip) and feather/hair jigs, trapping and hunting. It was more important to me to try and fish/hunt keeping what I needed for the pan and releasing the rest.
Now with time on my hands, I am considering re-loading for accuracy, velocity and specific bullet choice for a specific specie.

So, Weatherby Nation, what tools should I buy to accomplish my goals to truly match specie, caliber, bullet choice, accuracy and optimal velocity and energy at distance.
You know what is not important to buy just as you know what tool(s) I absolutely need.
What press should I buy, calipers, scale, etc...
I don't need tools/presses to put out 10 loaded rounds per minute. I will be trying various bullets along with powder recipes to get the custom results I anticipate through loading my own ammunition
Help me out with putting together the tools to create the custom ammo and the results I am interested in achieving.

[truck driver + 2]

Well you can buy several different brands of starter kits from RCBS, Lyman, Hornady, Redding and Lee. These kits will have everything you need to get started except the dies for every caliber you will reload and they will have to be bought separately.
On the cheap side Lee will work but one should buy the press they plan on using for the rest of their reloading life so I would tend to go with the higher end equipment . Redding makes the best dies on the market INMO and I would look at them for dies unless money is a problem and would then look at Lee since they will get the job done.
Several different reloading manuals for the bullets you plan on loading all have good info on getting started in reloading but some like Speer or Sierra go into a little more detail and don't over look a Lyman reloading manual since Lyman has been around for ever and has tons of info.
As you get more proficient you can then spend your money on such things as higher end calipers and micrometers and gauges to measure OAL and such which I did with out for years and had no problem producing high quality ammo that would out perform factory ammo for less money.
Just don't get caught up in having to have the so called latest and greatest that you read about in gun mags and on forums. Yes some of it works but most of the stuff is for Bench rest shooting though you can use it for hunting ammo it is not necessary.
Check out the deals on the reloading kits form Midway, Midsouth and other on line retailers since this is where you will find your best deals and everything that is needed.
I hope this helps you get started and when you do ask plenty of questions from the guys here who reload.
I would also ask a friend who already reloads to let you look at his equipment and try to load a few rounds so he can help you first get started and what ever you do never go above or below the manuals powder charges for the different bullet weights since you can blow up your gun if you do.
 

[Chris338378]

I would suggest getting the  which has all the must have tools to start reloading minus the dies.  If you want to upgrade your scale to an electronic one I would get the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Powder Scale and Dispenser Combo 110 Volt.  As for a case trimmer I would go with the RCBS Trim Pro-2 Manual Case Trimmer Kit.  This will give you everything you need to trim your cases and if you want to later on you could upgrade it to a power unit by  buying the power head.  As for calipers I would go with the RCBS Stainless Steel Dial Caliper 6".  I have these calipers and they're very accurate, well made, and will last a lifetime as long as they're not abused.  I would also get the RCBS dies. 


All of my reloading equipment is made by RCBS, I've never had an issue with any of it, and if I had to do it over again I would buy all the same stuff again.  Another reason I suggest getting RCBS equipment is they have a lifetime warranty and  great customer service.  The most important things to do when you reload is make sure you know what you're doing by either having someone show you who really knows what they're doing, or read the books and watch the videos by the companies who make the reloading tools.  When you actually start loading TAKE YOUR TIME, if you're not sure of something ask or reread about it, do everything exactly the same each time, and keep in mind that quality is far more important than quantity.


RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit: this is on sale at www.midwayusa.com for $247.99 (regularly $329.99)

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit

RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Powder Scale and Dispenser Combo 110 Volt: this is on sale at www.midwayusa.com for $259.99 (regularly $349.99).

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/772151/rcbs-chargemaster-1500-powder-scale-and-dispenser-combo-110-volt

RCBS Trim Pro-2 Manual Case Trimmer Kit: this is on sale at www.midwayusa.com for $92.99 (regularly $109.99)

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/817007/rcbs-trim-pro-2-manual-case-trimmer-kit

RCBS Dial Caliper 6": this is on sale at www.midwayusa.com for $38.99 (regularly $45.99)

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1458630852/rcbs-dial-caliper-6

[badsection]

  I started with a el cheapo Lee kit I bought on sale and upgraded repeatedly.  The Lee kit did everything I needed to do. I started loading handgun rounds and used one can of Unique powder for them all.  You will need powder, primers bullets and brass.  I have been reloading since the early 90's .  When you have questions, this is the place to ask as a bunch of us are long time hand loaders.  I started with C clamping my press to the dining room table, a dedicated spot and bench work  better.  Good Luck!   

[Montucky]

+1 for Chris and badsection. Sounds like they have you dialed in. Chris's even went shopping for you haha. Just one thing to add, get a nice note book and take good notes. After a summer of fishing I have to rely on my notes to remember where I left off or what I was working on when the fishing got good.

[galamb]

I don't load "extensively" so for me the Lee Anniversary Kit was pretty much all I needed, save the dies.

I got it all in for not much over 100 bucks when it was on sale at Bass Pro.

No, it isn't top shelf stuff. No it's not as durable or tough built as many of the others and it does tend to get bashed by those that reload a lot as a "cheap kit".

But I only reload a couple hundred rounds a year, not hundreds a week. I just wanted to load Partitions or A-Frames for my 7.08 and 257 because the alternative was 60 to 100 bucks a box off the shelf.

Adding a few sets of dies for my calibers was all that was needed. The press, scale, powder measure, hand priming tool (as well as the press mounted primer), all the shell holders and the little odds/ends (deburring tools, funnel, powder scoops etc) were included in the kit.

The only thing I "added on" was a tumbler - and that was just to make the cases "look pretty"

So for the cost of one of the Lyman, RCBS or Hornady "kits", I also got four sets of Lee Dies and still had enough left over for a couple pounds of powder....

[badsection]

Plus, Lee stands behind their products pretty well in my experience. I still use a Lee Press for my shorter calibers and a Redding for the longer and tougher calibers I load for, like 338 Lapua.   

[eford]

The advice given is outstanding. This forum is filled with smart guys with great background and insight. If you have more than one reloading manual you will lilkey see different max loads and velocities for the same powder and bullet weight. Don't worry about the differences. As long as you stay under the max listed load, you'll be fine. Barnes bullets have data good for Barnes' own all-copper bullets. Those bullets can be shot at what might look like a small difference in powder but that means a difference in chamber pressure. It can lead to blowen primers and you don't want that. The cup and core (regular, dumb bullet) data and the bonded bullet data from Hornady, Nosler, Speer, and Swift is fine for the regular reloading.
There will be great loads you stumble onto and you'll be surprised. There will be what seem like identical loads that shoot poorly. Your accuracy will improve with your own loads. Game on.

[dubyam]

Great advice so far.  I'd suggest you approach this much like you did fly/jig tying and trap maintenance.  It's a part of the process, and a valuable one, and most of us find we enjoy the act of reloading very much.  For me it's very relaxing.

I'll suggest you start with a good kit.  I started with an RCBS kit now 25yrs ago, and have added some other gear along the way, but really everything is still going strong after 25yrs of use, several moves, and plenty of loading.  The big names are all pretty good, and if I were starting out today I'd strongly consider which of the RCBS/Lyman/Hornady/Redding kits was on sale as a great starting point.  I like my RCBS Trim Pro 2 (which Chris already gave a sterling recommendation), and I like my Hornady powder measure (which is great for pistol rounds but I don't use as much now that I'm primarily loading rifle rounds).  I have the Midway stainless dial caliper, and as long as I can keep my son from stealing it from me, I see no reason to replace it, ever, until it breaks.  A good tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner would be a nice add-on in the short term, as well, as clean cases make for more consistent ignition and are easier on dies in the long run.

As for dies, I like Hornady New Dimension dies.  I try to get them for all the cartridges I load.  I've had three sets of Redding dies, and two of the three have had QC issues, so I'm not a huge fan.  I have some Lee dies, but again, I see the difference in quality and for the $10 difference in cost, I'm good with Hornady.  I've also used RCBS and Lyman dies to good effect, and still have a bunch of RCBS pistol dies around.  If you start really chasing precision, a good neck die will be a welcome addition.  I use Hornady neck dies because they're not cartridge specific, and I can use the same .308cal neck die for 308Win, 30-06, 300WinMag, and 300Wby.  I like easy and cheap, and that's both.  One other die I'd suggest is an inexpensive universal decapping die, as it makes for quick decapping of multiple cartridges in one sitting, without having to swap dies around.  It works well for me since I decap, clean, resize, and the regular dies decap and resize in the same step.

Now, what I'll add is to get some good hand tools.  Initially, you'll be doing most of the work by hand, so a nice set of RCBS or Lyman hand tools will make that easier.  I like the VLD chamfer tool I have from Lyman, but I'd certainly like the one from RCBS, too.  I also have primer pocket cleaners from RCBS, and I have a nifty little tool for getting tumbler media out of the flash hole which came from Lyman.  I don't see it often on store shelves, but it's easily one of my most used tools.  Here's a link to it:

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/000157777750/flash-hole-cleaner

Note, too, that Midsouth has the Lyman Crusher kit for about $235 right now.

I suggest you spend some time reading the Hornady Ballistics Resource online:

http://www.hornady.com/ballistics-resource

It's one of the best treatises on what happens inside and outside the firearm when a cartridge is fired.  Check out RCBS videos on the steps of reloading, for a basic overview, as well.

Much of the data out there now for Weatherby rounds is pretty watered down, so I'd suggest Nosler and Hodgdon as good starting points (though even some of the Hodgdon data is dismal), and Barnes for their bullets.

Good luck and keep asking questions!  When you take the first game animal with your own loads, it's a new kind of good feeling.

[PARA45]

Solid advise given here.  I have a lot of RCBS stuff, like press, the Chargemaster (love it) Chris mentions, calipers, and other stuff.  I've also been using Reddings shell holders and dies because I can buy their deluxe set and get a neck sizer & full length resizing die.  Regardless which route and brand you go, you can never have enough reloading manuals, and that is where I would start first. Get a couple of them big names: Nosler, Barns, Sierra, Hornady or Speer, and read their reloading instructions, to get an idea on what you may need.  Also, the RCBS web site has some excellent videos you can watch and learn from them. 

BTW, I don't reload to save money, I reload to relax and for personal satisfaction of knowing that the ammo I reloaded shoots great in my rifles, and that is what I used to hunt.  Also, if there is a shortage of ammo in the stores, I can always load up a box in no time. 

[badsection]

I have dies by Lee, RCBS, Redding and Hornady. Being a cheap bastard, I got what was on sale and available for my chosen caliber. I can't really tell the difference.  I got into reloading as a cost savings measure and soon realized my guns were more accurate.  Besides, while reloading, I stay out of the fridge! LOL! 

[truck driver + 2]

Besides making better ammo than I can buy it also keeps the mind busy and exercises  the brain muscles. 

[Chris338378]

One thing I forgot to mention is I ALWAYS use the bullet manufacturer's reloading manual for their bullet heads, for example Nosler's manual for all Nosler's heads, Hornady for Hornady heads, Sierra for Sierra heads, and so on.

[Downeast]

I started reloading around 1980 with a single stage Lee press. I still have it. I bought one of their 3 hole turret presses about 25 years ago. I gave that one to my neighbors recently who wanted to start reloading. He is pumping out pretty decent ammo with it every day. I replaced the 3 holer with the 4 holer on sale for around $125.00. I load everything from 243 to 338 Lapua (including several Wby calibers) and Lee has never let me down. Neither have Lee dies. I own a bunch of dies from RCBS, Redding, and Hornady. I've had a few problems with them over the years but the Lee dies have always worked and put out some pretty fine ammo too.

Regardless of what you purchase if you do decide to get a "kit" go ahead and purchase a decent electronic scale seperately. It will make handloading a lot more enjoyable.   

[zonie]

  Mix and match reloading equipment is not a bad thing.  You will find down the road as you gain experience and confidence some tools just work for your purposes a little better than others,  not that the other tools are a bad thing more of a personal preference.  For first time loaders I'd probably go with a rcbs rock chucker supreme kit and add tools as needed.  I would buy at least 3 or 4 reloading manuals high on my list would be the abc's of reloading,  nosler, speer , sierra, hornady, and read the manuals you buy extensively,  basically you are becoming a student of the sport and any information at this point is needed for a good foundation for later projects such as loading for accuracy, etc.  If you don't get the basics down you are peeing in the wind, and wasting time when you run into a problem.  Not all accuracy problems are ammo related keep this in mind a good portion has to do with the firearm and how well it's set up and tuned.  Optics is another issue you can run into issues.   Almost all reloading equipment today will load decent ammo.   Choose the bullet/s for your game e.g. match bullets for accuracy,  big game bullets for big game, varmit bullets for things you don't want to eat or possible keeping the hide with a small entrance hole,  caliber & velocity dependent of course otherwise you can tear them to pieces with the wrong bullets, etc.   You really don't need a ton of equipment to make very accurate ammo for hunting rifles using the correct loading techniques and practices to me that's far more important than buying the latest and greatest equipment. I'm going to list the basics that you will need, and you can add on later as needed.  A good single stage press such as RCBS or turret press such,  Lyman and Redding make good multi stage turret presses these last 2 act like a single stage press except you can rotate the head by hand making loading a little faster it's not a bad thing.  If you want the one heavy duty press take a look at a C H  Champion O type press  I don't think you could break it or wear it out in a lifetime of continuous use if you keep it oiled.  www.ch4d.com  The next question is how do you want to prime cases ,  by hand ?  on the press ? or bench mounted priming machine ?  I use a bench mounted RCBS priming tool,  all of them work.   Vernier calipers 0 to 6" in thousands of an inch.  I use old school high end  Craftsmans made in Japan dial calipers but I also have digital Harbor Freight cheapies that seem to work just fine so far.   You will need a good scale for weighing powder charges, cases and bullets, etc.  you should get a manual powder measure for dropping metered charge weights of powders, a powder trikler is another good tool,  sometimes I use them and sometimes I don't.  Ball powders throw very accurately dropped with a measure  and save a lot of time. Remember some really high end accurate shooters don't weigh their charges, but rather load by volume instead of weight once a baseline is set.   A lot of people like electronic powder dispensers and scales I'm not one of them.  I use a very high end no longer made RCBS 304 scale and an older  RCBS 505 scale most of the time.  I don't need to load 5000 rounds an hour  per machine with automatic loading machines that I use to.    You will need a case trimmer I prefer a Forster and I also use the outside neck turning attachment & pilots  on some calibers you can add the outside neck turning tools later when needed otherwise I just use the case trimmer with the normal pilots. You will need a deburing / camfering tool,  some type of case lube don't bother with a roll pad there are better ways to lube cases such as spray lubes or sizing waxes or case and die lubes.  I make my own spray lube but the commercial versions are OK.  You need some loading blocks I suggest MTM's  they are very good and hold multiple case head sizes.  You will need some ammo storage plastic boxes eventually with case load information stickers on each box of ammo,  You should get a three ring binder to make notes and on load info and also paste your shot targets in the binder for later reference or make a file folder for each caliber to put shot target in with notes attached. Info should read caliber, weather, wind , outside temps, altitude, times loaded, date,  powder & charge weight , primers, bullet, velocity if chronographed , coal,  etc.  You might as well get use to this routine now if you are going to load for accuracy  I guarantee you will be looking at your shot targets with load info later.  Of course you will need dies and shell holders and eventually you will need a few nice to have items such as case headspace measuring equipment and case concentricity tools to straighten loaded ammo (  but with proper ammo loading techniques you can get bullet run outs to a min just by loading and rotating cases while bullet seating )then double checking run outs on the tool.  Once you get use to loading I highly suggest you get on e-bay or gun shows and buy used equipment as needed,  you can save a ton of money once you know what to look for.  I probably forgot a few things just don't buy stuff you really don't need.