300 Weatherby Mag

[dubyam]

What based are you using? I'd be willing to bet you have front dovetail bases with the rear base having two large screws in opposing sides of where the ring meets the base. Remove your scope, and gently turn your front ring with a dowel, and then adjust the rear windage screws in the base to align the front and rear ring bottoms on the bases. Sounds a lot harder than it is. An in-lb torque wrench will be helpful for reassembly. If you have trouble understanding (or your bases aren't this style) shoot me a PM and we will get on the phone to talk it through.

[drtony]

I have one piece Talley mounts. I called Talley and told them my rifle and scope models. They game me a model number which I purchased directly from them. 

I don’t have a torque wrench or lock tight ir anything. That’s why I took it to Cabelas. What tools will I need?

[disdp1]

Talked to the Custom Shop middle of last week. #1 rifle coming back to them is the .300 for brakes. I'm on that list! Bought a mint 1972 West German Deluxe that looks like everyone that owned it was afraid to shoot it. I bore sighted w/ a Vortex 4x16 PST that came off my 30-378 Accumark. shot twice w/ a very light shirt on. Could feel the bruse developing, but the accuracy was phenomenal! Note- i bore site by looking down the barrel and tuning the scope to expected impact.
2nd rnd at 100 after minor correct was bull exact. But i digress, the stats that they list under their Accubrake page for recoil poundage is very accurate. @25#'s the 30-378 wasn't anything that made you flinch. The 300 w/o a brake at 39+#'s will take it's toll unless your padded. I elected to just get it over and have a brake put on it. When i hunt here in WI, it's usually cold enough that i have a lot of clothing on, but w/o a brake and lighter cloths, i could not shoot this rifle a lot at one time. I love this caliber and rifle! Wish it had a 26" barrel but not a big deal. PS, owned a .270 deluxe for 35 years that was handed down to little me. Reload exclusively with Norma or Weatherby brass.
Have fun w/ any decisions you have to make!
David

[dubyam]

I have one piece Talley mounts. I called Talley and told them my rifle and scope models. They game me a model number which I purchased directly from them. 

I don’t have a torque wrench or lock tight ir anything. That’s why I took it to Cabelas. What tools will I need?

Hmmm...almost sounds like your action is drilled off-center, but that's nuts, and super rare.  You can check by pulling the scope and sighting through the lower ring halves, to see if the barrel is off center to the rings.  Talley makes good kit, and they're usually on their game with what they recommend.  Could be some hack at Cabela's didn't mount it right.

What you really need to do it right is a scope mounting kit, but the reality is, I've been mounting mine for a couple of decades with a very straight 1" oak dowel from Lowe's, a ring wrench, a cheap in-lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight (Horror Fright!), and a set of torx/allen bits which fit in a 1/4" socket.  With the Talleys, you won't even need the dowel or the ring wrench - those are for turning in and aligning dovetail rings.

All you really need is a soft touch and a torx/allen wrench, depending on what screws you have in the rings, if you're mechanically inclined.  I tend to overtighten stuff so I got a torque wrench.

[Louisiana 1976]

I just purchased a Weatherby 7mm wyb mag with serial number h256xxx can someone tell me when ii was made and it’s bout 85% shape what is the value thanks

[drtony]

dubyam, What does that mean the action is drilled off center? I haven’t even considered it might be the rifle that is the problem haha.

How would it not mount right if they are one piece? Screw base into rifle holes, place scope in, tighten. I could do that if I had the tools— just figured cabelas does it free so why not!

[dubyam]

It's possible the action was drilled incorrectly. I've only heard of that happening with a Weatherby once, so it's a very outside chance that's the problem.

More likely, the counter help at Cabela's just cranks things down and that's your problem. My advice is grab the right tools (won't cost much) and remove the current setup. It may be that Cabelas overtightened your rings and getting the torque right will fix it, but that's doubtful. What I suspect is they just slapped the ring bottoms on and didn't bother checking alignment. I hope they didn't damage your scope tube in the process of tightening it.

[DW5]

I’ve used Cabelas to put on quite a few scopes in the past. I’ve only had on bad experience, it was the last time I used them (not that I think they will all do a bad job now, it just got me weary) and it was EXACTLY what Dubyam is describing.

[drtony]

Well I hope they didn’t damage the scope either! I asked the guy who did it how tight they need to get in case I choose to switch things out. He told me 28lbs of torque.

I am calling Burris in the morning. Fingers crossed!

[drtony]

I have one piece Talley mounts. I called Talley and told them my rifle and scope models. They game me a model number which I purchased directly from them. 

I don’t have a torque wrench or lock tight ir anything. That’s why I took it to Cabelas. What tools will I need?

Hmmm...almost sounds like your action is drilled off-center, but that's nuts, and super rare.  You can check by pulling the scope and sighting through the lower ring halves, to see if the barrel is off center to the rings.  Talley makes good kit, and they're usually on their game with what they recommend.  Could be some hack at Cabela's didn't mount it right.

What you really need to do it right is a scope mounting kit, but the reality is, I've been mounting mine for a couple of decades with a very straight 1" oak dowel from Lowe's, a ring wrench, a cheap in-lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight (Horror Fright!), and a set of torx/allen bits which fit in a 1/4" socket.  With the Talleys, you won't even need the dowel or the ring wrench - those are for turning in and aligning dovetail rings.

All you really need is a soft touch and a torx/allen wrench, depending on what screws you have in the rings, if you're mechanically inclined.  I tend to overtighten stuff so I got a torque wrench.

If the off chance the action is off center... can the scope ever zero?  can the rifle ever be accurate?

[drtony]

Another update...

Took the rifle to a gunsmith to see if he could determine the problem.  His initial idea was to just put adjustable rings/mounts on the rifle to adjust for lack of left adjustment.  I was not keen on the idea of fixing the problem with a "band-aid".  I told him this is an expensive rifle and scope and it should be mechanically sound (that's my OCD kicking in).

The gentleman was very nice and tried numerous ways to diagnose the problem.  He tried to bore sight the same rifle and scope with different mounts... same problem.

He tried to bore sight the rifle with a different scope of the exact same make and model (with original talley mounts)... same problem.

He put two different scope models on the gun with same mounts... no issue whatsoever.  He  said the other 2 scopes would bore sight no problem AND have plenty of MOA to adjust in both directions.

So, I called Weatherby to see if the problem COULD be the rifle.  The gentleman I talked with said it was very unlikely the action would be off center or the screw holes for mounting.  He mentioned they check for that specifically in their quality control.  He told me I could double check the action screws were tight. Basically, He told me it would be very unlikely it was the rifle, but if I wanted to send it in they would be happy to inspect it.

I also called Burris to let them know the trouble I was having with zeroing.   The guy on the phone was less than pleasant.  He stated there was no possible way the issue was the scope.  He said if there was 40MOA of total windage adjustment then the scope was not the problem (I checked and there are indeed 40MOA of adjustment). His suggestion was to use $100+ signature adjustable mounts and rings.  I told him a $900 scope is useless to me if it won't zero unless I put the scope on crooked.  He didn't like that much.  He told me I can send it in for inspection, but I would have to pay shipping and it would take 2-6 weeks and if nothing was wrong with the windage adjustments they'd just send it back.

Because burris was so difficult, I called SportOptics where I bought the scope (Their return policy states scopes cant be returned once they have been mounted).  I talked to customer service and I explained the situation with the zeroing and with my call to Burris. They are sending me a prepaid return label for a full refund on the scope and placed a new order for me over the phone (Vortex gen 2 PST) and shipped the new scope that same day. 

I am going to mount the new scope when it gets here Tuesday and go to the range.  I am assuming it will zero just fine!

[dubyam]

Keep us posted. I suspect your Burris wasn't right, and your encounter with their customer service certainly isn't right. Having had occasion to call both Burris and Vortex with questions, I can assure you Vortex won't give you any kind of similar response, should a problem ever arise from your new scope. I hope that resolves your problem. It sure sounds like the scope was the issue.

[DW5]

I own several Vortex products and can second what Dubyam is telling you. They are first class when it comes to customer service/warranty issues.  Seems like you found your culprit, hopefully things are smooth sailing now. As far as your experience with Burris, I too seem to be running into interactions similar to what you are describing A LOT lately....  maybe its just me.... but I have really been wondering what in the world has happened to customer service??   

[Chris338378]

I also think your issue is the scope.  If you want to check the screw holes in the action to see if they're misaligned you could try to check with a torpedo level.  Line the edge of the level up with the left or right edge of the screw front and rear holes and see if the other holes touch the edge of the level.  If you don't have a torpedo level you can also do this with something that you know is straight such as a framing or speed square.  If you're going to use one of the squares I'd wrap the edge of it with painter's tape so you don't scratch the finish on your rifle. 

[drtony]

Update,

I received my new scope yesterday and mounted it. Bought a Vortex PST gen II 5-25x50.

After it was bore sited, took it back to the 100 yard mark. Got it close to the bullseye (first 3 shots were the outliers seen in the photo while aiming at the bottom bullseye). 4th shot was right under the bullseye (had to adjust left roughly 25 clicks to get it that close).

Let the gun cool, my dad took the next 4 shots (bottom 4 at the top  right bullseye). 2 more clicks left.

Let the gun cool and Went back to 200 yards, shot at the top left bullseye. Hit the top 3 holes above the bullseye on the right.

Still shoots so far to the right. We use a bench rest. At least it’s 1.5” group at 200 yards haha. I adjusted left some more (but I’m running out of left adjustment again). Going to go shoot again in a few days.

Still not sure what to think. I’m getting frustrated.

Chris338378, that’s a good idea. I will try a straight edge and see if they are level/straight. For whatever reason I’m
Just seeing your post today. Never got a notification for it.