Copper plated barrel

[dubyam]

I wouldn't bother with the Tubbs system.  I'd get it good and clean, and then go settle it in at the range.  Shoot some groups, do some load development, but don't shoot any Barnes or Swift (pure copper versus gilding metal alloy - it will cause all sorts of fouling issues if you switch between the two).  What you want to see is if the rifle will group reasonably well (1" or better at 100yds), and how long it takes before those groups start to open up a bit due to fouling.  Track the number of shots.  Then, when groups begin to open up, clean it again.  My gut says you'll be cleaning every 20-30rds for a bit, then you'll start stretching that out to every 40-50.  If your rifle will shoot 40rds between cleanings with no negative impact on group size, you don't have a fouling problem.

My 270Wby fouls a fair amount, as does my 243Win, and so forth.  But all these rifles will go 30-50rds between cleanings without impacting group size, so the fouling is just part of the bargain.  When I clean, I clean it all the way down, and then go back at it again.  Over time, the intervals get longer, but I never go more than a year between cleanings just because I don't want the carbon in the bore that long.  It can change the carbon content of the steel.

[Dino82520]

Thanks Dub, that makes as much sense as anything I've read so far.  My MK V .300 does  copper foul a bit and will easily keep three shots under an inch.  After sighting in for the season I just run a bore snake through it a couple times then I clean it down to bare steel before I put it up for the winter.  I have a good supply of .25 cal bullets of which I believe the ABLR is among the hardest. 

What burns my posterior is trading a .257 Vanguard that shot beautifully.  Very little fouling and accurate with a wide variety of loads. I was hoping a MK V would be even better.

[untouchable]

have you guys tried KG copper solvent? this is the best i have found. no smell not harmful to the bore. bought a 338-378 with a krieger match grade barrel. it was a fouler from new. lapped the barrel with J B took a while but the fouling ended. i have a hawkeye bore scope also not sure how you can tell what's going on in the bore without one. this is my first post so take it easy on me i don't know everything.

[Blackbear3]

I would have to say the majority of people on this site use BTE (bore tech eliminator), it works so well I see no reason to try anything else. Welcome to the Nation!!!

[untouchable]

thanks I'm gonna check that stuff out

[Blackbear3]

thanks I'm gonna check that stuff out

If you do try it don't use bronze jags or brushes, you'll get false positives.

[Dino82520]

have you guys tried KG copper solvent? this is the best i have found. no smell not harmful to the bore. bought a 338-378 with a krieger match grade barrel. it was a fouler from new. lapped the barrel with J B took a while but the fouling ended. i have a hawkeye bore scope also not sure how you can tell what's going on in the bore without one. this is my first post so take it easy on me i don't know everything.

Welcome.  Being new here myself I can understand reluctance to suggest something out of the mainstream.  I came here for answers and got some good suggestions.  I've been reloading since the '70's and my lack of knowledge in many areas is laughable. So I joined the forum hoping to acquire knowledge from the many members who know a lot more than I do  and maybe offer a few things I have learned over the years.

Dean

[untouchable]

thanks for the reply Dean

[dubyam]

If I had to use something other than BTE, it would be KG, for sure. Just about the only negative to KG is that it's a little difficult to get soaked into a patch - tends to bead a little on the cotton patches I use.