Idea for Bipod Mount - Will This Work?

[Dodgeboy]

I recently purchased a Series 2 Vanguard in .223 for the range.  I plan to shoot it off a bag or bipod.  Instead of relying on the front sling swivel screw for the bipod mount, I was thinking of drilling a second hole in the synthetic stock and mounting a short piece of Picatinny rail.  I have a bipod with a quick-release for a Picatinny rail (left over from a recently departed long-barrel AR) that should work quite nicely.

The existing swivel screw is just threaded into the plastic.  I figured I'd drill a second hole and epoxy a nut inside the stock for a machine screw.  Then drill out original swivel screw hole, too, and add another nut.  Does anyone see a problem with this plan?

[.257]

Because the stock is not designed for a rail, it may not be smooth and the same contour as the rail. After getting it fit and mounted where you want it, l would bed it to the stock. Use a release agent on the stock. It should work fine, unless someone else knows of a reason not too
Good luck

[African Leadwood]

This will work, depending on how you approach it.

This is a very similar idea to what is used by McMillan when fitting their sling swivels and extra swivels. I suggest a threaded piece of material, like aluminium though, to increase the surface area and not just a nut on the inside of the stock. You could mill a flat for it. Alternatively you could drill a larger hole to recess a larger flat washer type of nut. Just epoxy in place so it doesn't twist when you tighten your screws.

Depending on recoil and how you set up to shoot, you call tear a nut through a stock over time.

[HighDesertHunter]

The short answer is yes, your method will work. I use a T nut countersunk into the barrel channel and positioned so I do not remove the pressure point. Just make sure that the screw that you use doesn't touch the barrel when you tighten it down.

As a side note, putting the bipod mount at the swivel stud is convenient but it is probably the worst location. If you move it back to about mid point in the fore end, it will have more range of motion and less effect on the harmonics of the barrel.

[PARA45]

I think one factor to consider is how much pressure you may place on the stock, and if this will affect the harmonics of the barrel, and maybe shift point of impact.  Those Vanguard stocks are not too stiff, and the stock may flex.   I think bedding the barrel channel  to stiffen the stock would be a great idea.

[TN Grouser]

Ummmm,  as I recall from removing the synthetic stock, there is a second reinforced place in the stock ready to drill (down) for a second swivel.  This might make things easy for a try. 

[Dodgeboy]

Thanks for the replies and ideas, everyone!  I haven't had the stock off yet to inspect the inside.  I have a magazine/floor plate kit coming in the next few days and thought I'd wait until then to take things apart.

If the stock already has a stiffener as TN Grousner says, that might make the screw location an easy decision.  And as HighDesertHunter mentioned, having the rail mounted toward the rear sounds like a good move, too.  At the least, I'll use the existing swivel stud hole as the front hole and have the rail going rearward from that.

Since this isn't a free-floating barrel, I know I need to be careful with the stock.

[HighDesertHunter]

Dodgeboy, can you tell us which model Vanguard S2 .223 you bought. There are 7 and each may have different methods for accomplishing the bipod mount like you want to do.

[Dodgeboy]

It's a Vanguard Weatherguard™ H-Bar. 

[buffybr]

...As a side note, putting the bipod mount at the swivel stud is convenient but it is probably the worst location. If you move it back to about mid point in the fore end, it will have more range of motion and less effect on the harmonics of the barrel.

Moving the front rest point back on the fore end will give you more range of motion in finding your target, but it will also not give you as steady a hold on your target as you would get from the front rest point being closer to the front end of your stock.

If your barrel is free floated, the location of the rest point will not effect the harmonics of the barrel.

[224KING]

If your barrel is free floated, the location of the rest point will not effect the harmonics of the barrel.
[/quote]




+1

[HighDesertHunter]

It's a Vanguard Weatherguard™ H-Bar.

That's good news. Your barrel is free floated so as others have stated, the bipod location can be combined with the front sling stud and should not affect barrel harmonics. I have an idea that you're wanting to use a 2" mlock style picatinny accessory rail. While you can use that you want to make sure that you remove the raised portions from the back so that it sits flush with the stock. If you're interested there is a proper mount for doing this: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/226862/atlas-bipod-flush-cup-1913-flat-back-rail-4-steel-black These are what I use and find they work very well. There are two different lengths so you need to measure the center to center distance of your current and new stud locations. As a side note, I often install these with just the one stud mount location and have never had one move.

[Dodgeboy]

I must not understand free floating barrels.  I thought that with a free floating barrel, the barrel did not touch the stock forward of the receiver.  I have a Savage 11 varmint barrel gun (.308) and I can put a piece of paper between the barrel and stock and slide it back to the receiver.  With this Vanguard, the stock is tight against the barrel (though I can pull it away a bit by hand).  There are no visible mechanical fasteners forward of the receiver, though.  Can someone educate me on this?

[HighDesertHunter]

I must not understand free floating barrels.  I thought that with a free floating barrel, the barrel did not touch the stock forward of the receiver.  I have a Savage 11 varmint barrel gun (.308) and I can put a piece of paper between the barrel and stock and slide it back to the receiver.  With this Vanguard, the stock is tight against the barrel (though I can pull it away a bit by hand).  There are no visible mechanical fasteners forward of the receiver, though.  Can someone educate me on this?

The norm is .030 clearance between your barrel and the barrel inlet starting at the end of the chamber. Maybe yours is not free floated. Weatherby is not big on free floating barrels so it's entirely possible that even with the heavy barrel (H-Bar) they still use the pressure point.

I have a Mark V .308 Threat Response Rifle which is sort of the precursor to your H-Bar. Mine is in a factory Bell and Carlson stock and it is factory free floated. I just assumed that the Vanguard H-Bar's were the same. Sorry for the bad info.

[Dodgeboy]

Not a problem, HighDesertHunter.  I'll take the stock off soon and take a good look at things.