Spike Camp
Weatherby Products => Rifles => Topic started by: drtony on June 27, 2018, 03:16:55 PM
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Hey all,
Looking for advice or wisdom...
I recently purchased an Accumark in 300 Weatherby magnum (no accubrake yet). I shot it for the first time over the weekend and I was less than impressed... I would say I was even disappointed with it for a $2000 rifle (which left me confused because it is hard work to find bad things about Weatherby rifles online). The gun was cleaned before I shot the first time, after the 3rd shot, and 6th shot with ample cooling time in between (that's as far as I got because the scope needed adjusting).
I was not able to test accuracy because the rifle is not sited in yet, but I will assume it is an accurate gun. My concerns were:
1. the gun kicked so hard it was knocking the batteries out of my ear protection (I wear $300-$400 peltor ear protection). I am not a small human at 240 pounds, so it wasn't awful to shoot, but it wasn't necessarily pleasant to shoot either-- especially compared to my dads Browning BAR II Safari in 300 win mag.
2. The action. When I would load the magazine well 3 + 1 in the barrel, the rounds in the magazine well wouldn't stay down and the bolt kept getting stuck on them when I tried to close it. After the bolt was closed, they cycled and chambered okay, but not smooth either.
I was shooting HSM berger VLD in 185 grains, not sure if that info is relevant, but I am trying to provide all the information I can. I feel like I am stuck with an expensive gun that's a little disappointing, but I am HOPING there is something that I am missing. I feel like I should sell the gun and go with something else, but I will lose so much money.
Thanks in advance.
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I'll try to help you out here.
1)Comparing your bolt action Weatherby to the Browning BAR II isn't completely fair because the BAR is a gas operated semi-auto which all semi-autos tend to have less felt recoil because of the operating system of the action. Also keep in mind that the .300 Weatherby uses more powder and has more pressure which also translates into more recoil. I haven't fired any HSM ammo so I can't comment on if that's "hotter" than other ammo.
2) The issue with the bolt hitting the top round in the magazine box will happen every time unless you load it this way
1) load the rounds into the magazine
2) load a round into the chamber by tipping the muzzle down and dropping the round into the chamber
3) press down the top round in the magazine box causing the rounds to go deeper into the magazine box
4) close the bolt
If you don't do it this way the bolt will always try to strip off the top round from the magazine box to feed it into the chamber. This is not unique to Weatherby rifles, it will happen with any bolt action rifle. Something similar will occur with pump and semi-auto rifles also but that's a different topic.
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1. Install the break. Weatherby says they reduce the felt recoil by up to
53% and the guys who use them on here seem to back that up with real world experience.
2. Reach around with your left hand and gently press down on the 3 rounds in the magazine and use your right hand to guide the bolt forward over the still pressed cartridges till it closes smoothly. This really shouldn’t be a huge issue since just about every time you’ll want to load to max capacity probably won’t be “quick fire” situation.
As far as the action’s smoothness, if you’ve never worked a Mark V, they can definitely feel rigid until you get used to it. Remember it’s the strongest bolt action in the world. It’s absolutley okay to put a little grit into working it. I personally feel once you get used to the Mark V, they are actually pretty smooth.
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I'm not sure why we jump immediately to criticism when a rifle is performing exactly as designed. Chris338378 is exactly right about how to load a bolt action rifle. The recoil is that of a 300 Weatherby. Please be patient and enjoy.
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I appreciate all the replies!
I did figure the automatic action of my dads would absorb some recoil. So I will agree with you that it’s not a fair comparison.
I will definitely try that loading method, you both described!
I wouldn’t necessarily say I am criticizing the rifle— it’s a beauty and work of art and I really do love it. I think I might have had different expectations when I hear people say “smooth as glass” and what not!
I also think that if I had it sited all the way in and were shooting sub MOA groups it’d prolly erase some of the felt recoil!
From what I could gather in my research prior to purchasing this rifle, 300 WBY has roughly 4 lbs of extra punch in recoil (considering all variables are the same) as compared to 300Wm.
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I have an Accumark in 300 WIN that shoots handloaded 212 gr bullets with 75.5 grains of powder. Average MV is about 2830 fps. While probably still lighter than the 300 Wby, the recoil is quite noticeable. Knocks me out of the scope every time. But it's not so bad that I won't put 20-50 rounds down range every trip to the range. My rifle, scope and load combo will shoot sub 1/2 minute, if the shooter does his part. I'm sure yours is equally capable.
The Accumark is a well crafted rifle, but it is a bit light for shooting heavy, fast moving bullets from a bench. If the recoil bothers you, add a brake. Then those $300 ear muffs will get to show their true value. The more you shoot it, the more accustomed you'll become to the recoil, and working the bolt. The 54 degree bolt lift took a while for me to get used to. Now I can run it like a champ.
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That’s a pretty gun, looks a little familiar though ;)
I have the expensive ear protection because I’m only 30 and already wear hearing aids due to some congenital hearing loss. For that reason, I won’t even hunt without hearing protection (I can actually hear better with high quality ear muffs than without them anyway lol). That’s a reason I haven’t put the accurake on already— I hear it’s crazy loud. With a 10-12 week wait the accubrake will have to wait until after hunting season if I go that route.
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If you are worried about your hearing then I would suggest not having the Accubrake installed and instead try to learn how to handle the recoil.You said you have used your dads semi auto 300 win mag but as others have said that type of rifle is a complete different style for recoil. If you have not used any other heavy recoiling rifles then that is a major part of your problem. Perhaps you should start by using lighter 150 grain projectiles and practice with those while standing and using some shooting sticks. Then you will be able to roll with the recoil. Which one cannot do whilst seated at a bench.
Maybe even use a rolled up towel or some other sort of extra padding on your shoulder to help soften the blow.
But one other thing also is that some people find the Monte Carlo style stock that Weatherby's have either increase or decrease felt recoil. I find that it greatly reduces my felt recoil. My UltraMark in .300 Wby Mag kicks me less than my Winchester M70 SuperGrade in .300 Win Mag. Same as by Brno ZKK 602 in .375 H&H is uncomfortable for me to shoot yet my Mark V DGR in .375 H&H is rather tame.
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If you haven't already tried one, you might get some recoil relief from a Limbsaver Air-tech slip on recoil pad. I put one on my Marlin 30-30, that kicked like a mule, and it tamed the recoil. After putting it on, I felt the push back on my shoulder, but no pain. It can also be used on other rifles.
https://limbsaver.com/pages/recoil-pads-showcase
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Danno50 that is something to definitely consider, thank you!
BB340, shooting a lighter load was exactly what I had planned for my next range visit-- hoping to get out there Friday. I do have a question about lighter grained rounds. In my dads 300WM (for ideal ballistics in big game hunting) he pretty much has to shoot in the ball park of 200 grains when we elk hunt. My understanding is that a lighter grain wby will perform the same or better than a higher grain WM (for example a 180 gr wby will go faster and hit as hard as a 200 gr WM).
Because the 300 wby is a different animal than the 300WM, can I shoot 180 grains or even 165/168 grains for elk hunting? When I say elk hunting, I am really talking about some of the harder shots to make.
I know that shot placement is everything and what not, that a 243 can down an elk, but I am hoping to steer clear of that conversation. I am also trying to steer clear of the ethics part of taking long or hard shots at animals, as I would not take a shot I am not confident in (part of the fun in hunting is "the hunt" not necessarily lobbing shots at long distances or hard angles.
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Also, I had planned on selling this Weatherby and buying a Browning x bolt pro LR in 300 win mag. That plan is no longer in action due to you fine folks. I will definitely keep my Weatherby, "be patient and enjoy" this rifle. I love that it is faster and hits harder than anything the 300WM can shoot... reason enough to learn the nuances of this rifle and how to handle the recoil better. Also, I cannot quite explain it, but there is something about a Weatherby that just has an "x factor". When I looked at the browning x bolt pro at cabelas-- it was a nice gun, but I kept thinking to myself "its not a Weatherby" which made it seem sub-par!!
You all rock on this Weatherby nation forum-- thank you for all your help!
Now I have to start a new thread/topic asking about my next Weatherby rifle (smaller caliber for more local deer hunting)!! Hope to see you all there!
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drtony since you mentioned your looking for a smaller Weatherby for deer hunting. My suggestion would be a 257, 270 or 6.5-300 Weatherby. But then again the new 7-378 Weatherby is going to be announced this Fall, so maybe you should start saving and join me in ordering one. A 7mm is smaller then a .308 you know!!!
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I would want something that kicks less than m 300 wby... doesn't mean down the road I can't get a 7-378 :)
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I currently own 5 Weatherby rifles and to check accuracy I have always started my range work with the ammo that Weatherby suggests in the FAQ's section of the website. I like to know which weight and bullet design my rifle likes best (in general) before I try other premium ammo, as the .99 MOA guarantee is first with Weatherby ammo and then with other premium ammo. With the Wby ammo the scope is the only thing you have to tweak to get tighter groups and you'll know what ammo your rifle might like or dislike. But thats me.
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Don't worry about using a lighter bullet for elk, I know a guy who has shot dozens of elk with his 300WBY and 150g partition WBY factory loads. Personally I have killed over a dozen elk with 130g part. in 270's.
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If your worried about recoil buy a 257 Weatherby for deer. But the recoil from my 6.5-300 ULW is non-existent with the accubrake on, if you don't mind the muzzle blast.
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My Mark V 257 bee is my favorite gun that I own. It accompanies me 90% of the time during deer season. I did however recently buy a Vanguard Wilderness in 240WBY. I wanted a lightweight deer gun for walking days and also something that had low recoil that I could let a few newer hunters shoot that I know I’ll be taking out in the next couple of seasons. If you are looking for a LOW recoil WBY that will take deer sized animals with authority, I’d also strongly consider a 240 in one of the heavier models...
With all that said, it’s hard for me not to recommend to anyone a 257 WBY. Like a lot of others on here, it’s what my favorite deer rifle is chambered in.
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That's good to know. I have some weatherby made 150 gr and 165 gr.
DW5, I was looking at the 257 wby or 6.5CM for lighter recoil deer hunting. I live in MN so my hunting is mostly in northern MN and WI (I will be using the 300wby for my elk hunting out west and hunting moose/bear/big horn one day... fingers crossed). With the lighter caliber I was hoping for a light rifle as well for ease of lugging around the woods or mountains. The 240 wby is worth checking out too now! Does anyone think a 26" barrel is too long for a lightweight rifle used for the above applications?
What are the differences in shooting the 257 vs the 240 since you have both?
Any recommendations for a lightweight Mark V for me to start drooling over while I save some $$. I was looking at the altitude maybe?
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Here you go drtony, drool away. I hunt in Mn by Park Rapids and Moose Junction in Wisc.
https://www.gunbroker.com/Bolt-Action-Rifles/BI.aspx?Sort=13&bl=200024&ca=5000037&mfg=1000296
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I also think the Altitude is a really cool looking rifle. I’m currently casually looking for a lightweight MK V myself and it’s probably at the top of my list. I wouldn’t turn down an Outfitter or a regular Ulta Lightweight if I came across a good deal though. I will say that I’ve kind of steered away from the older U.L. on the gun auction sites, reason being is they seem to only very marginally cheaper than their newer (but still used) counterparts. I would suggest, if you are looking at for lightweight MK V in 240WBY, to also look at the Weathermark. The 240 in that rifle weighs in at just 6 1/4 pounds I believe, whereas the larger magnum rounds are 7 3/4. It will almost certainly be the cheapest option for a brand new MK V. I can personally say the Weathermark is an outstanding rifle too, it’s what my 257 is in.
I’d scour Gunbroker and well as check Buds and Reeds (Northern Firearms) websites often.
I’d say the way I’d compare the 257 to the 240 is... with scopes, straps, ammo, etc... my .257 weighs in at a little over 2 pounds heavier than my 240. The 240 still has a little less felt recoil to me. I run 110 Accubonds in the 257 and 100 grain Partitions in the 240. I’m far from the only guy on here with both though, maybe some others will share their thoughts.
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Here are some 240s on Gunbroker.
https://www.gunbroker.com/Bolt-Action-Rifles/BI.aspx?Sort=13&ca=5000026&mfg=1000296
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Blackbear3, you are only a couple hours from me if you're in the park rapids area! thank you for the link-- I have been looking gun broker over plenty lol.
DW5, I also gave consideration to the Ultra Light Weight-- seems like a nice entry level Mark V!! I actually looked at that in a big caliber at the local cabelas before purchasing my accumark. I decided against that light of a gun for this large of a caliber!
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DW5, I really like the look of the weathermark. I just couldn't understand why they would make a weather impervious rifle with cerakote coating on a chromoly barrel. If that rifle had stainless instead of chromoly-- I would get that!
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drtony, I live in Rogers to close to the Cabelas. I drive up to Park Rapids to deer hunt. My father and uncle used to have places on Long lake by Hubbard.
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I wouldn't worry in the least about using 180 or even 165 grain bullets out of your .300 for elk as long as you use bullets that are well made such as the Nosler Partitions or Accubonds to name a few. They will penetrate and expand well and do the job as long as you place your shot well. If you're looking for a "lighter" caliber for deer the .257 Weatherby Magnum is a good choice and to add another option so is the .270 Weatherby Magnum. The .270's recoil is mild and it does it's job extremely well. Heck I'd even use it for elk.
When it comes to recoil everyone is different and it's some what of a subjective thing as to how hard a rifle kicks. When I was a kid I was deathly afraid of recoil. As I got older I wanted to get over that fear and my Dad fixed that for me. He has an early post-64 model 70 in .375 H&H Magnum and the one day he brought it to the range with us. Well me being curious I was eyeing it up and I asked if I could shoot it. He had me sit on the bench, he loaded it, and put it on the rest for me to shoot. The first I flinched about as much as a leaf in a hurricane but there was no bullet in the chamber. The second time I didn't flinch nearly as bad and again there was no bullet in the chamber. Well the third time I figured it was going to be empty again and I squeezed it off really well but the surprise was there was a bullet in it this time and it went boom. I didn't think it kicked too bad which might have been partially due to the shock that it was loaded and I just shot it but I wanted to keep shooting it, which I did. Now I wouldn't say it was exactly the best idea to help someone get over being recoil shy but it certainly worked for me and since then I'd had a passion for magnum calibers. The biggest I've shot is a Barrett .50B.M.G. and the two biggest I own are a .458 Winchester Magnum and a .460 Weatherby Magnum. I've hunted with the .458 a few times but my favorite rifle is my .338-378 Weatherby Magnum which is one of the first ones they made. On the subject of muzzle breaks I will say ear plugs are an absolute must whenever your shooting or hunting with it. The break does take some getting use to when shooting off a bench because you get a "puff" of air blown in your face when you shoot it off a bench but with a little practice you get use to it and don't really notice it.
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You're getting great advice here, drtony. I'll corroborate the idea that a stout 180gr or a very stout 165gr bullet from a 300Wby is going to be good medicine for elk. I'll have my 300 with 180gr E-Tip handloads should I get the chance to go after elk in the future. It's on my list, but other things seem to keep bumping it down - college costs for my kids, orthodontics for the kids, new truck for my wife (I see a theme here...).
As for recoil, I'll offer a couple of thoughts. First, noise is a huge factor in recoil. I've found a lot of folks get noise-based flinches, and they carry over to such hard kickers as 22lr and 243Win. If you're not wearing double protection, I'd suggest you get some good plugs (30-31db reduction) and some good traditional muffs (>30db reduction), rather than electronics. Wear the plugs and muffs together, and get situated behind the rifle in a comfortable, not too bent over position. If you need to adjust the seat height or the rifle height, use a cushion (I suggest a padded boat cushion) to raise your seat (or more than one if needed) and raise the rifle with a rest or sandbags. Getting in the right position does wonders for mitigating recoil. The range I frequent has too short a bench for the seat height for me (I'm 6'2" and a little long in the torso). I have to raise my rifle a bit from the surface of the bench top to get really comfortable.
The last tip is to get a recoil pad for your shoulder. PAST makes some excellent ones. I use an old bath towel most of the time. I figure it simulates the thickness of my hunting clothing during the colder part of the season (when most of our deer activity occurs here in northern Alabama), so it works well for me. It also pads my shoulder from the barrage of rifles and ammo I take to the range when I finally get time to go shoot.
Beyond that, start with the 150s in your 300, as the recoil will be 5-10% lower than the 180s. Expect it to be a sharp jolt at first, but over time you'll get used to it. Just work on the fundamentals, and swap out to smaller stuff with lower recoil frequently so you can maintain your form and trigger pull and breathing.
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drtony, after wanting a .300 Weatherby for almost 40 years, I finally bought a Vanguard about 10 years ago. I bought it primarily for my elk rifle, but it quickly became my favorite hunting rifle. I also enjoy prone plinking at the 300 and 430 yard steel gongs with it every week at our range.
I like fancy walnut and enjoy working with stocks, so before I took my new Weatherby to the range for the first time, I re-stocked it in AA Fancy Walnut, built to fit me, put a Limbsaver recoil pad on it and installed a mechanical recoil reducer in the stock, and had a local gunsmith install a KDF muzzle brake on it. The resulting recoil of my .300 Wby feels less than the recoil of my .308 Win Vanguard in a similar fitting stock.
As for bullets for elk, for many years I killed my elk with 150 and 180 grain Hornady and Sierra cup and core bullets from my .30-06. Probably the quickest kill that I've made on an elk was from a 117 grain Sierra GameKing on one of my largest 6x6 bulls. Bullet placement is more important than bullet diameter, weight, or brand. For 20 some years my favorite elk bullet was the 180 grain Nosler Partition at .300 Win velocities. My first two bull elk with my .300 Weatherby were with a 168 grain Barnes TSX bullet and a 168 grain TTSX bullet. Both bullets performed superbly on those elk and also on a hunt in New Zealand and several hunts in Africa.
I think the ultimate bullet for a .300 Wby weighs 180 grains, and last year when I put a Leupold VX 3i 4.5-14x40 CDS scope on mine, I developed a Barnes 180 grain TTSX load for it and had Leupold make a custom dial for that load. That will now be my hunting load for just about everything.
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i have owned a mark v deluxe Without a break and a mark v KCR with a break both in 300 weath. Holy cow what a difference in recoil!!Brake might be the way to go.. i dont even have to hold the Kcr down with my left hand .. like shootn a 243.. Both my rifles shoot fantastic with weatherby ammo..180 accubonds
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That all makes pretty good sense! I am glad to hear that 165 grains will be good for elk... I have weatherby made 150 gr partitions and 165 grain BT for hunting. I also invested in 180 gr nosler AB which I had planned on shooting, but that might change!
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Update:
Went to the range yesterday and shot some weatherby made 150 grains.
Recoil was not unpleasant at all. I’m gonna shoot light for a few weeks and then start to increase grain to help get used to it.
Action, I played with it a bit and it definitely felt better— learning the action will take some time. There were a couple times that it really went smooth!!!
Now, hopefully you all can help with a different problem. I have a Burris veracity 4-20x50 scope mounted on my rifle. Cabelas mounted it for me. It is dead on vertically at 100 yards. It shoots 3-4 inches to the right though. The problem is, it cannot be adjusted left any further.
I called Burris after my first trip to the range and they told me to loosen the turret screws and remove the turret. Then he told me to adjust the zero stop to the left . Unfortunately that did nothing to help me as there is no way to adjust with the turret off (that I could see). I don’t want to use a pliers and scrape up the silver knob. It doesn’t matter where I put the turret cover back on— still can’t adjust left anymore.
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What based are you using? I'd be willing to bet you have front dovetail bases with the rear base having two large screws in opposing sides of where the ring meets the base. Remove your scope, and gently turn your front ring with a dowel, and then adjust the rear windage screws in the base to align the front and rear ring bottoms on the bases. Sounds a lot harder than it is. An in-lb torque wrench will be helpful for reassembly. If you have trouble understanding (or your bases aren't this style) shoot me a PM and we will get on the phone to talk it through.
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I have one piece Talley mounts. I called Talley and told them my rifle and scope models. They game me a model number which I purchased directly from them.
I don’t have a torque wrench or lock tight ir anything. That’s why I took it to Cabelas. What tools will I need?
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Talked to the Custom Shop middle of last week. #1 rifle coming back to them is the .300 for brakes. I'm on that list! Bought a mint 1972 West German Deluxe that looks like everyone that owned it was afraid to shoot it. I bore sighted w/ a Vortex 4x16 PST that came off my 30-378 Accumark. shot twice w/ a very light shirt on. Could feel the bruse developing, but the accuracy was phenomenal! Note- i bore site by looking down the barrel and tuning the scope to expected impact.
2nd rnd at 100 after minor correct was bull exact. But i digress, the stats that they list under their Accubrake page for recoil poundage is very accurate. @25#'s the 30-378 wasn't anything that made you flinch. The 300 w/o a brake at 39+#'s will take it's toll unless your padded. I elected to just get it over and have a brake put on it. When i hunt here in WI, it's usually cold enough that i have a lot of clothing on, but w/o a brake and lighter cloths, i could not shoot this rifle a lot at one time. I love this caliber and rifle! Wish it had a 26" barrel but not a big deal. PS, owned a .270 deluxe for 35 years that was handed down to little me. Reload exclusively with Norma or Weatherby brass.
Have fun w/ any decisions you have to make!
David
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I have one piece Talley mounts. I called Talley and told them my rifle and scope models. They game me a model number which I purchased directly from them.
I don’t have a torque wrench or lock tight ir anything. That’s why I took it to Cabelas. What tools will I need?
Hmmm...almost sounds like your action is drilled off-center, but that's nuts, and super rare. You can check by pulling the scope and sighting through the lower ring halves, to see if the barrel is off center to the rings. Talley makes good kit, and they're usually on their game with what they recommend. Could be some hack at Cabela's didn't mount it right.
What you really need to do it right is a scope mounting kit, but the reality is, I've been mounting mine for a couple of decades with a very straight 1" oak dowel from Lowe's, a ring wrench, a cheap in-lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight (Horror Fright!), and a set of torx/allen bits which fit in a 1/4" socket. With the Talleys, you won't even need the dowel or the ring wrench - those are for turning in and aligning dovetail rings.
All you really need is a soft touch and a torx/allen wrench, depending on what screws you have in the rings, if you're mechanically inclined. I tend to overtighten stuff so I got a torque wrench.
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I just purchased a Weatherby 7mm wyb mag with serial number h256xxx can someone tell me when ii was made and it’s bout 85% shape what is the value thanks
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dubyam, What does that mean the action is drilled off center? I haven’t even considered it might be the rifle that is the problem haha.
How would it not mount right if they are one piece? Screw base into rifle holes, place scope in, tighten. I could do that if I had the tools— just figured cabelas does it free so why not!
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It's possible the action was drilled incorrectly. I've only heard of that happening with a Weatherby once, so it's a very outside chance that's the problem.
More likely, the counter help at Cabela's just cranks things down and that's your problem. My advice is grab the right tools (won't cost much) and remove the current setup. It may be that Cabelas overtightened your rings and getting the torque right will fix it, but that's doubtful. What I suspect is they just slapped the ring bottoms on and didn't bother checking alignment. I hope they didn't damage your scope tube in the process of tightening it.
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I’ve used Cabelas to put on quite a few scopes in the past. I’ve only had on bad experience, it was the last time I used them (not that I think they will all do a bad job now, it just got me weary) and it was EXACTLY what Dubyam is describing.
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Well I hope they didn’t damage the scope either! I asked the guy who did it how tight they need to get in case I choose to switch things out. He told me 28lbs of torque.
I am calling Burris in the morning. Fingers crossed!
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I have one piece Talley mounts. I called Talley and told them my rifle and scope models. They game me a model number which I purchased directly from them.
I don’t have a torque wrench or lock tight ir anything. That’s why I took it to Cabelas. What tools will I need?
Hmmm...almost sounds like your action is drilled off-center, but that's nuts, and super rare. You can check by pulling the scope and sighting through the lower ring halves, to see if the barrel is off center to the rings. Talley makes good kit, and they're usually on their game with what they recommend. Could be some hack at Cabela's didn't mount it right.
What you really need to do it right is a scope mounting kit, but the reality is, I've been mounting mine for a couple of decades with a very straight 1" oak dowel from Lowe's, a ring wrench, a cheap in-lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight (Horror Fright!), and a set of torx/allen bits which fit in a 1/4" socket. With the Talleys, you won't even need the dowel or the ring wrench - those are for turning in and aligning dovetail rings.
All you really need is a soft touch and a torx/allen wrench, depending on what screws you have in the rings, if you're mechanically inclined. I tend to overtighten stuff so I got a torque wrench.
If the off chance the action is off center... can the scope ever zero? can the rifle ever be accurate?
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Another update...
Took the rifle to a gunsmith to see if he could determine the problem. His initial idea was to just put adjustable rings/mounts on the rifle to adjust for lack of left adjustment. I was not keen on the idea of fixing the problem with a "band-aid". I told him this is an expensive rifle and scope and it should be mechanically sound (that's my OCD kicking in).
The gentleman was very nice and tried numerous ways to diagnose the problem. He tried to bore sight the same rifle and scope with different mounts... same problem.
He tried to bore sight the rifle with a different scope of the exact same make and model (with original talley mounts)... same problem.
He put two different scope models on the gun with same mounts... no issue whatsoever. He said the other 2 scopes would bore sight no problem AND have plenty of MOA to adjust in both directions.
So, I called Weatherby to see if the problem COULD be the rifle. The gentleman I talked with said it was very unlikely the action would be off center or the screw holes for mounting. He mentioned they check for that specifically in their quality control. He told me I could double check the action screws were tight. Basically, He told me it would be very unlikely it was the rifle, but if I wanted to send it in they would be happy to inspect it.
I also called Burris to let them know the trouble I was having with zeroing. The guy on the phone was less than pleasant. He stated there was no possible way the issue was the scope. He said if there was 40MOA of total windage adjustment then the scope was not the problem (I checked and there are indeed 40MOA of adjustment). His suggestion was to use $100+ signature adjustable mounts and rings. I told him a $900 scope is useless to me if it won't zero unless I put the scope on crooked. He didn't like that much. He told me I can send it in for inspection, but I would have to pay shipping and it would take 2-6 weeks and if nothing was wrong with the windage adjustments they'd just send it back.
Because burris was so difficult, I called SportOptics where I bought the scope (Their return policy states scopes cant be returned once they have been mounted). I talked to customer service and I explained the situation with the zeroing and with my call to Burris. They are sending me a prepaid return label for a full refund on the scope and placed a new order for me over the phone (Vortex gen 2 PST) and shipped the new scope that same day.
I am going to mount the new scope when it gets here Tuesday and go to the range. I am assuming it will zero just fine!
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Keep us posted. I suspect your Burris wasn't right, and your encounter with their customer service certainly isn't right. Having had occasion to call both Burris and Vortex with questions, I can assure you Vortex won't give you any kind of similar response, should a problem ever arise from your new scope. I hope that resolves your problem. It sure sounds like the scope was the issue.
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I own several Vortex products and can second what Dubyam is telling you. They are first class when it comes to customer service/warranty issues. Seems like you found your culprit, hopefully things are smooth sailing now. As far as your experience with Burris, I too seem to be running into interactions similar to what you are describing A LOT lately.... maybe its just me.... but I have really been wondering what in the world has happened to customer service?? ??? ???
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I also think your issue is the scope. If you want to check the screw holes in the action to see if they're misaligned you could try to check with a torpedo level. Line the edge of the level up with the left or right edge of the screw front and rear holes and see if the other holes touch the edge of the level. If you don't have a torpedo level you can also do this with something that you know is straight such as a framing or speed square. If you're going to use one of the squares I'd wrap the edge of it with painter's tape so you don't scratch the finish on your rifle.
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Update,
I received my new scope yesterday and mounted it. Bought a Vortex PST gen II 5-25x50.
After it was bore sited, took it back to the 100 yard mark. Got it close to the bullseye (first 3 shots were the outliers seen in the photo while aiming at the bottom bullseye). 4th shot was right under the bullseye (had to adjust left roughly 25 clicks to get it that close).
Let the gun cool, my dad took the next 4 shots (bottom 4 at the top right bullseye). 2 more clicks left.
Let the gun cool and Went back to 200 yards, shot at the top left bullseye. Hit the top 3 holes above the bullseye on the right.
Still shoots so far to the right. We use a bench rest. At least it’s 1.5” group at 200 yards haha. I adjusted left some more (but I’m running out of left adjustment again). Going to go shoot again in a few days.
Still not sure what to think. I’m getting frustrated.
Chris338378, that’s a good idea. I will try a straight edge and see if they are level/straight. For whatever reason I’m
Just seeing your post today. Never got a notification for it.
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Called Weatherby again, explained the situation. Told the gentleman I talked to this was the second scope I ran out of left adjustment with. It was recommended that I send my gun in with scope and mounts so they can diagnose the problem. I asked how long it would take, he told me it depends— could be a month and could be 3 months. I explained that I had bought this rifle specifically for my hunt this fall (might be once in a lifetime hunt— at least won’t be going again for a long time). I asked him what happens if I don’t get it back in time... he said he understands my concern but there is nothing they can do for me except look at the rifle and fix the problem. He just said he hopes it’s an easy fix and they get it back in time. I kinda reiterated how disappointed I would be if I spent all this money and had no rifle to take out West. Again, he was nice and basically said we need to wait and see. He told me they won’t do exchanges or loaner rifles for liability issues. Told him I understood and I would be calling him in a couple weeks to touch base.
So, went to Cabelas and bought a hard case (more money spent on this endeavor) to protect the rifle and scope during transit. Weatherby said they recommend not sending it back in the original cardboard box the gun came in. I guess I will hear back within 3 weeks as to whether or not I will have the rifle back in time for my hunt this fall.
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Shot my .300 many times at the range, last year had a muzzle brake installed, no more wearing carhart vest to shoot in the summer. With the brake it's like shooting a different Rifle. As far as scope i will always use a lapping bar and will most times have to lap the scope rings due to being out of alignment.