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Sighting in 300 wby

Sighting in 300 wby
« on: October 14, 2023, 07:28:21 PM »
Guys if this is in wrong place I apologize  in advance.  Came across ed something today while sighting in my 300 today. I have it shooting cloverleaf at 100yds 2" high. When I moved out to 200 it was hitting 4" low. Does this seem right ? The hunt I'm going on could have shots from 25yds to 300yds. Now I'm really confused

224KING

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Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2023, 07:49:20 PM »
What bullet weight are you shooting? Is it a handload or factory round you are shooting?
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Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2023, 07:52:00 PM »
I'm using a 180gr factory interlock

Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2023, 08:32:11 PM »
That doesn't sound right to me either.  Looking at the ballistics for that round. In the 2002 weatherby chart. With A 300 yard zero it should be 3.1 " at 100  / 3.8" at 200 / 0 at 300 and -9.0 at 400 and -24.4 at 500 yards
In your case I would zero at 200 then see where you are at 50 and 100 and call it good.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2023, 06:03:20 PM by grizzly340 »
Mark

Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2023, 08:33:47 PM »
Two inches high at 100 with that load will put you 1.6" high at 200.  What size group are you shooting at 100 and 200?
BPH

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Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #5 on: October 15, 2023, 06:06:43 AM »
Letting it cool between shots?  :)

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Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2023, 06:50:12 AM »
Try a different box of shells. A 300 Savage shoots flatter than that
Mike

Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2023, 09:00:19 AM »
Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna try a different box and sight in at 200, see where I am at 50 and 100

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Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2023, 09:43:13 AM »
https://weatherby.com/ammunition/ballistics-charts/

A 300 yard zero would be 3.1" high at 100 and 3.8" high at 200 per wby's chart.

Is it grouping that low? Keep us posted, yes should shoot much flatter than that!

Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2023, 09:46:39 AM »
 I think I would call rifle/ammo combo good if you are shooting cloverleafs at 100 yds,  learn the rifle and the ammo drops / shoot at different ranges and practice,  if the rifle is accurate at these different ranges leave it alone and don't start switching a lot of expensive things looking for what some book says it's suppose to be.  Book ballistics and ammo charts are a guide only,  a starting place so nothing is set in stone.   Every rifle is different,  scope choice and how high or low it's mounted can make a slight difference,  how you hold a rifle can make a difference you need consistency,  parallax in the scope can make a difference especially if you mount the rifle (different head positions) can shift bullet point of impact in a scope with a scope that has a lot of  parallax at different settings and ranges.  environmental differences can influence bullet/ammo points of impact shifts i.e. altitude, shooting up hill/downhill,  etc.  I sight/zero all my 300's and a few other calibers  @ 300 yds.  just an fyi some rifles just don't shoot quite as fast or some actually shoot faster than advertized take things with a grain of salt and go shoot. 
« Last Edit: October 15, 2023, 09:53:04 AM by zoniezonie »

Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2023, 03:54:54 PM »
I have it shooting a 2" group at 200yds, but 4" below bullseye.  I'm going to try a different box of shells, shoot 3.75" high at 200 and see where I'm at at 100. Thanks for all the help

Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2023, 05:36:30 PM »
Guys how much difference would having parallax set on 300 when shooting at 200 ? Just checked and that is one problem, set it on 300 by mistake

Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2023, 06:24:11 PM »
every scope is different,  one thing about parallax to remember when scope makers adjust for parallax at the factory they aren't always perfect  if range marking say 100 yds it might be 105 yds or what ever range adjustment to settle the reticle down so it doesn't move when looking thru the scope,  moving your head up/down side to side while looking at a target grid ,  try it put your rifle in a solid rest and not touching the rifle no movement and moving your head around looking at the reticle at an object and crank up the adjustable objective thru it's adjustment range and see the reticle move,  it doesn't matter if it's front objective lens adjustment, side focus adjustment, or non adjustable/fixed at the factory imo.  I would say most fixed power B/G hunting scopes without adjustable objectives parallax is set at 100 yds on these scopes look thru at something stable at longer ranges and the reticle will move around this is why mounting your rifle when you shoot the same each and every time is important especially at long ranges.  one thing I do when on the bench so I can get a pretty good feel of the scope when shooting is I will back my head away from the scope to allow a little bit of black in the lens and keep it centered as best I can this helps me with any parallax issues keeping me aligned if that makes sense.  I haven't found a scope that's absolutely flawless at least for my poor eyesight.  the other thing on second focal plane scopes is the fast focus eyepiece that can wobble around shifting what you think is right on target until you move/bump the eyepiece and actually see on the target just how much the reticle moves. grab ahold of the eye piece while looking thru it and see if the reticle shifts.   I much prefer threaded eye pieces they can't move around because they are locked down,  better fast focus eye pieces that are tight and wobble free are just fine they don't move.   the other trick is mount the rifle and your head position the same way every time this is really more important for  scopes with no parallax adjustment which is perfectly fine even for long range shooting ,  what did we do before all this new stuff,  lock the eye piece down, keep your head position the same each time and pull the trigger.  one better scope I have  now discontinued the fast focus eyepiece was so loose and wobbly I had to pull the eye piece off and add another lg "O" ring stacked behind the first to be able to get enough tension on the eye piece to hold it in place so the reticle didn't move around,  something I always look for in any scope  just how secure is the fast focus eye piece you will know right off the bat if it's loose  looking for any shift in the reticle.   I get it fast focus eye pieces are great  if every one is shooting the same rifle and needs to adjust for their eye sight, BUT locked down eye pieces with a large locking ring are king. IMO  unless you drop it off a horse like I did one day,  scope still works old Leupold Vari x III
« Last Edit: October 18, 2023, 07:15:27 PM by zoniezonie »

224KING

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Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2023, 07:53:49 PM »
I hate parallax
Retirement; The art of doing very little,very slowly

Expert; Someone who knows so much about so little

If you live in the swirl of the drain,inevitably you'll wind up in the cesspool.

Remember 10534

Sorry... Yesterday was the last and final day for any and all complaints whatsoever.

Re: Sighting in 300 wby
« Reply #14 on: October 18, 2023, 10:53:15 PM »
every scope is different,  one thing about parallax to remember when scope makers adjust for parallax at the factory they aren't always perfect  if range marking say 100 yds it might be 105 yds or what ever range adjustment to settle the reticle down so it doesn't move when looking thru the scope,  moving your head up/down side to side while looking at a target grid ,  try it put your rifle in a solid rest and not touching the rifle no movement and moving your head around looking at the reticle at an object and crank up the adjustable objective thru it's adjustment range and see the reticle move,  it doesn't matter if it's front objective lens adjustment, side focus adjustment, or non adjustable/fixed at the factory imo.  I would say most fixed power B/G hunting scopes without adjustable objectives parallax is set at 100 yds on these scopes look thru at something stable at longer ranges and the reticle will move around this is why mounting your rifle when you shoot the same each and every time is important especially at long ranges.  one thing I do when on the bench so I can get a pretty good feel of the scope when shooting is I will back my head away from the scope to allow a little bit of black in the lens and keep it centered as best I can this helps me with any parallax issues keeping me aligned if that makes sense.  I haven't found a scope that's absolutely flawless at least for my poor eyesight.  the other thing on second focal plane scopes is the fast focus eyepiece that can wobble around shifting what you think is right on target until you move/bump the eyepiece and actually see on the target just how much the reticle moves. grab ahold of the eye piece while looking thru it and see if the reticle shifts.   I much prefer threaded eye pieces they can't move around because they are locked down,  better fast focus eye pieces that are tight and wobble free are just fine they don't move.   the other trick is mount the rifle and your head position the same way every time this is really more important for  scopes with no parallax adjustment which is perfectly fine even for long range shooting ,  what did we do before all this new stuff,  lock the eye piece down, keep your head position the same each time and pull the trigger.  one better scope I have  now discontinued the fast focus eyepiece was so loose and wobbly I had to pull the eye piece off and add another lg "O" ring stacked behind the first to be able to get enough tension on the eye piece to hold it in place so the reticle didn't move around,  something I always look for in any scope  just how secure is the fast focus eye piece you will know right off the bat if it's loose  looking for any shift in the reticle.   I get it fast focus eye pieces are great  if every one is shooting the same rifle and needs to adjust for their eye sight, BUT locked down eye pieces with a large locking ring are king. IMO  unless you drop it off a horse like I did one day,  scope still works old Leupold Vari x III
I do NOT like the fast focus eyepieces for the reason that they can move too easily and always at the wrong time. I have since started to wrap electricians tape around the focus ring after setting it. So far none of them have moved.